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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I'm in the process of designing my second idea with a view to making a couple for personal use.

Earlier this year I made two of my first design which was really simple and a strong homage to the Breitling Superocean 2005 (one of my favourite watches, but unobtainable for me!). The first design was this:
Screen Shot 2018-08-30 at 13.44.10.jpg

I'm now looking at my next design and I've come up with these so far. It's an evolution of the first design which is pure homage, and I've added my own design tweaks to it. Date and non-date versions. I usually lean towards a date as I find it very useful but the non-date has a little extra symmetry which looks cool. I've also made examples with and without the extra inside minute track.

Case size: 40mm
Lug width: 22mm
Crystal: Flat sapphire
Movement: Seiko NH35a

LPW1 Date.jpg LPW1 NoDate.jpg

LPW2 Date.jpg LPW2 NoDate.jpg

What is everyone's thoughts? Feedback is much appreciated :)
 

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Hi all,

I'm in the process of designing my second idea with a view to making a couple for personal use.

Earlier this year I made two of my first design which was really simple and a strong homage to the Breitling Superocean 2005 (one of my favourite watches, but unobtainable for me!). The first design was this:
View attachment 13436279

I'm now looking at my next design and I've come up with these so far. It's an evolution of the first design which is pure homage, and I've added my own design tweaks to it. Date and non-date versions. I usually lean towards a date as I find it very useful but the non-date has a little extra symmetry which looks cool. I've also made examples with and without the extra inside minute track.

Case size: 40mm
Lug width: 22mm
Crystal: Flat sapphire
Movement: Seiko NH35a

View attachment 13436283 View attachment 13436285

View attachment 13436287 View attachment 13436289

What is everyone's thoughts? Feedback is much appreciated :)
Their great! Very clean design!

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks mate! Did you have a preference with date/no date or with the additional inside minute track or not?
 

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Some minor/not-so-minor nitpicks:

- If symmetry is important, how hard would it be to get a vertically oriented date wheel for the NH35 and put the date at 6? That solves the symmetry problem at least for those who prefer a date.

- The hands on the previous prototype seem awfully small for a diver. Here they're going up in size a bit, but the hour and minutes are pretty similar in length if not width.

- Here's the big one for me. I cue off the size of the dial very strongly to feel if the watch is OK in size or too small. Having a dark area surrounded by light area makes the dial feel like it's only the center in terms of visual weight. Pulling the indices into the middle and making sure the hands don't go past that visual barrier make it even more obvious. Combined with a 40mm diver which (for me) is just too small for a diver/watch with bezel and a dial that makes it feel small, it seems like it's going to "wear" even smaller.

I remember the first time I saw a modern Hamilton Pan Europ in person-- I had gone to see it specifically and once I put it on my wrist it was an instant no sale. The dark dial (surrounded by white) on a moderately large watch felt like I was wearing a medium-to-large watch with a teeny tiny dial and that was that. I have no interest in that model anymore.

But let's be honest-- I'm not the entire market and you're free to take whatever I mention with a grain of salt. Separating the design from the size, I'm personally just not going to consider a 40mm diver and only look at 40mm watches in the context of all-dial stuff.
 
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Oh, and if you keep the date at 3:00, a black date wheel with white numerals is the other good option to make it feel less asymmetrical.

$.02
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Oh, and if you keep the date at 3:00, a black date wheel with white numerals is the other good option to make it feel less asymmetrical.

$.02
Hey,

Thanks a lot for your feedback. Very much appreciated so thanks for taking the time to reply.

On the date window, I think I prefer it at three as that's the place I'm most used to seeing it, rather than at 6. I will have a look at the inverted colours of the datewheel though. That's a good idea.

Your comments about the size are very interesting and have struck a valid point with me. I usually wear a Superocean Abyss which is 42mm but wears quite small due to the large bezel, and the sectored dial with the yellow chapter ring. Bumping up the size to 42mm might be a good shout in terms of wearability as you're right, it'll likely wear smaller than due to the design.

Thanks for your input - very helpful!
 

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I like the design. It sort of looks like a Pelagos dial in a Black Bay case.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks! Someone else mentioned a Pelagos hint, which I'd not realised/thought about. Happy with the comparison, good company to be in with Tudor! :)
 

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Oh, I quite like that. Agree with the comment about having a black date wheel. Putting the date at 6 would also help a lot, as suggested.
Overall quite fond of the wide rehaut chapter ring, that's a touch that's quite unusual these days. As mentioned, it evokes a Pelagos, and one of my favorite details of that watch is the way the dial markers cut into the rehaut.

I am finding though that the unfilled rectangle on the rehaut at 12 is out of place. Maybe a fat triangle?
 

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I quite like it!!!

It’s begging for an orange inner dial ;)

My only critique are the hands - the hour and minute hands look discordant. Maybe the hour one is too thick and long?


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Looks amazing I want it! I prefer the date with no extra minute track. I agree with the other guy go with 20mm lugs.

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi all,

Thanks for all the great feedback and help. Having taken everything into account form here and other sources, this is the design I have finalised and will be having made into prototypes which will hopefully be ready early in the new year. 3D renders to come in the coming weeks :)

Case size: 40mm
Crystal material: Sapphire w/ AR on underside
Bezel material: Sapphire w/ lumed markers and AR on underside
Movement: Swiss STP 1-11
Lug to lug:48mm
Lug width: 20mm

What does everyone think?
44951187_295803714359879_1112748308960378880_n.jpg
 

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Hi all,

Thanks for all the great feedback and help. Having taken everything into account form here and other sources, this is the design I have finalised and will be having made into prototypes which will hopefully be ready early in the new year. 3D renders to come in the coming weeks :)

Case size: 40mm
Crystal material: Sapphire w/ AR on underside
Bezel material: Sapphire w/ lumed markers and AR on underside
Movement: Swiss STP 1-11
Lug to lug:48mm
Lug width: 20mm

What does everyone think?
View attachment 13597811
I dont like the bracelet, maybe oyster is my thing.

However gotta give lots of credits to the watch head design, manly and elegant at the same time :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I dont like the bracelet, maybe oyster is my thing.

However gotta give lots of credits to the watch head design, manly and elegant at the same time :)
Thanks for your feedback! It took me a long time to get the watch head right and finalise the design. I was determined to make something classy with a nod to some vintage dive pieces whilst also being a modern and classy piece. I wanted it to look equally at home on a diver's wrist and on a businessman's wrist. Kind of like the submariner does.

Funnily enough I am actually in the process of sorting out a different bracelet design myself as I decided that the one in the renders just wasn't right for the project. It won't be a plain and simple Oyster as I want the bracelet to be different to the usual offerings from most microbrands, but it will be something that better fits the overall aesthetic.
 

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I dont like the bracelet, maybe oyster is my thing.

However gotta give lots of credits to the watch head design, manly and elegant at the same time :)
I agree with this... somehow, an oyster-style bracelet seems like a better fit for this design. I also somehow find that I prefer the non-squared-insides of the original prototype to the 62MAS-style squares for some reason. That's just me though, I think it looks pretty neat anyhow. Since you're reworking it, I'd suppose something that plays off the blocky look of the indexes and hands would be best.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I agree with this... somehow, an oyster-style bracelet seems like a better fit for this design. I also somehow find that I prefer the non-squared-insides of the original prototype to the 62MAS-style squares for some reason. That's just me though, I think it looks pretty neat anyhow. Since you're reworking it, I'd suppose something that plays off the blocky look of the indexes and hands would be best.
Do you mean the shape of the case/edge between the lugs? As in the straight edge versus the more traditional curved edge? If so, this was probably more of a personal choice. I like being able to use a range of different straps and bracelets on my watches. With curved lugedges there's always a gap between the case and the strap when using traditional straight edge straps. I don't mind this with leather, or rubber straps, but with bracelets I hate it and the only way to combat it is with generic end pieces, that never quite follow the shape of case lugs properly.

So, in an effort to allow greater changeability of straps and bracelets, I went with a straight case edge between the lugs so that it's easier for owners to change straps/bracelets up with a good fit without a gap. The majority of replacement bracelets have a straight edge which will look nice and neat with this case design/shape.

Lots of thought went into every element of the design and I had to be totally happy with each part before moving to completion! The bracelet still continues to be a bit of an issue. I may explore the full bespoke/custom option if an existing design cannot be found. I'd still prefer to have something different from a traditional Oyster as they're a very common design, and I want this to be something different in an owners collection.
 

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Do you mean the shape of the case/edge between the lugs? As in the straight edge versus the more traditional curved edge? If so, this was probably more of a personal choice. I like being able to use a range of different straps and bracelets on my watches. With curved lugedges there's always a gap between the case and the strap when using traditional straight edge straps. I don't mind this with leather, or rubber straps, but with bracelets I hate it and the only way to combat it is with generic end pieces, that never quite follow the shape of case lugs properly.

So, in an effort to allow greater changeability of straps and bracelets, I went with a straight case edge between the lugs so that it's easier for owners to change straps/bracelets up with a good fit without a gap. The majority of replacement bracelets have a straight edge which will look nice and neat with this case design/shape.

Lots of thought went into every element of the design and I had to be totally happy with each part before moving to completion! The bracelet still continues to be a bit of an issue. I may explore the full bespoke/custom option if an existing design cannot be found. I'd still prefer to have something different from a traditional Oyster as they're a very common design, and I want this to be something different in an owners collection.
Yeah, I was referring to that.
You could do a custom end link but that has its own set of problems. I do own a watch with Doug's 62MWW case, so I do admit the straight case edge for lugs looks nice when straps fill the space completely - I like how it makes all the straps look made for the watch. Don't worry too much about my comment. It's that I somehow find the non-squared ends a better fit for the vintage-inspired look. Going with with the squared ends changes it up a bit and helps make its personality more unique.
 

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Yeah, I was referring to that.
You could do a custom end link but that has its own set of problems. I do own a watch with Doug's 62MWW case, so I do admit the straight case edge for lugs looks nice when straps fill the space completely - I like how it makes all the straps look made for the watch. Don't worry too much about my comment. It's that I somehow find the non-squared ends a better fit for the vintage-inspired look. Going with with the squared ends changes it up a bit and helps make its personality more unique.
I had thought about a custom end piece, but then it wouldn't really end up being compatible with other bracelets, and it I made a universal end piece it wouldn't have looked right with all straps. Lots of deliberation and went with this shape in the end. Whilst it does, as you say, have a vintage-inspired look, I also did want it to have a modern flair to it too. A cross over of modern and vintage. Glad you like the finished peice! I'm looking forward to being able to show the finished head with the finished bracelet design. It looks like I'm going to be going completely bespoke as I just cannot find anything pre-existing that works for my aesthetic preferences...Watch this space!
 
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