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Discussion Starter #1
Like the title says I have been searching the web for answers which only added to my confusion, I am interested in hand wound watches and it appeals to me to be in touch with my watch every morning.
I already got one that i like, but it is not chronometer. I love the speedy for many other aspects besides the fact it is a hand wound, but i would like to know about the best hand wound movement out there. Robust, ACCURACY, bullet proof…..?
swiss, Japanese….. ???
Which movement would be considered the holy grail of hand wound mechanical? if that question is answered i can then look into the brand of watches that this movement is slapped in.
I searched the forum but did not get a clear answer to my question.
 

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Do you have a price point in mind?
 
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Do you have a price point in mind?
around 4-5K
But from what i read the price does not translate necessarily into my quest. even some suggested that older mechanical KS were in the 60s more accurate than current high caliber ones.
 

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Do they make the movement in-house, or they share components with other swiss movements, like ETA 6498 movement?
Both.

They make in house movements in their Quintus line.

They also heavily modify the ETA 6498 in their 99 series. The above picture is a modified movement. If you compare it to the original ETA you will see that virtually everything has been modified. All engraving done by hand, gold chatons turned from gold rods, screws heat blued, converted to 3/4 plate, etc. Furthermore various models are modified to move the position of the sub seconds / centre seconds, add power reserve, date, and Quattro arret hacking function.

At the OP's price point, the 99 series would be a very good option.
 

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Dornbluth has a new in-house movement but I don't think it will be available in watches at those price points. Though I guess a lot depends on all this crazy currency decoupling, exchange rates, etc . . .
 
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Both.

They make in house movements in their Quintus line.

They also heavily modify the ETA 6498 in their 99 series. The above picture is a modified movement. If you compare it to the original ETA you will see that virtually everything has been modified. All engraving done by hand, gold chatons turned from gold rods, screws heat blued, etc.
So here we are talking about ETA movement, I know it is a robust one and many fine watchmakers will regulate it to 6 positions like what AL Archer does and this is one option I already probed.
What other gems out there that are better components and better made that the generic ETA (and here am excluding from my search the engraving, deco…am looking for the real stuff like better made hairsprings, better made escapement …etc?
 

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So here we are talking about ETA movement, I know it is a robust one and many fine watchmakers will regulate it to 6 positions like what AL Archer does and this is one option I already probed.
What other gems out there that are better components and better made that the generic ETA (and here am excluding from my search the engraving, deco…am looking for the real stuff like better made hairsprings, better made escapement …etc?
When I think of better made hairsprings and escapements at this price range, then I think Omega or Rolex (lower priced models). Most of these will be automatics though.

Nomos would be an option to consider. I believe they are largely inhouse, and understand they have made some recent advancements to their escapements and hairsprings, but don't know much about what this entails.
 

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If you are looking for something really special check out RGM, they are slightly above your price range for their in house movements at $7400 list price for their most affordable in house. They are in your price range for their heavily modified ETA stuff. They are in Pennsylvania, do everything by hand in house, and their in house movements are 100% American made. Not sure if this is what you're looking for but to me they are as Holy as it can get and truly something you'll NEVER see on another wrist in this price range.


 

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Discussion Starter #14
If you are looking for something really special check out RGM, they are slightly above your price range for their in house movements at $7400 list price for their most affordable in house. They are in your price range for their heavily modified ETA stuff. They are in Pennsylvania, do everything by hand in house, and their in house movements are 100% American made. Not sure if this is what you're looking for but to me they are as Holy as it can get and truly something you'll NEVER see on another wrist in this price range.
Odd place for the crown, will search it up. thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Seems a nicely worked pocket movement 6497, bridge is the same or close maybe some flipping of gear positions but jewel placement is the same, so nothing new here we are back to the eta again. looks beautiful though, but i will not pay that much for eta variant even if it was built in US.
 

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So here we are talking about ETA movement, I know it is a robust one and many fine watchmakers will regulate it to 6 positions like what AL Archer does and this is one option I already probed.
What other gems out there that are better components and better made that the generic ETA (and here am excluding from my search the engraving, deco…am looking for the real stuff like better made hairsprings, better made escapement …etc?
At 4-5K? What is better made? There are better finished parts than a stock ETA of whatever grade (which is what the first responses demonstrated). Better hairsprings? There are other hairspring makers contracted by companies like Nomos, but they are not 'better' than Nivarox. Escapements? Again, a COSC certified ETA is going to be as good from a time keeping perspective as an ALS. Do you mean just 'different' than ETA? If so, Nomos has in-house movements with their co-developed 'own' spring and some decoration at the 3-6K. Otherwise, be prepared for lots and lots of ETA/Sellita movements with significant decoration/customization/'upgrades.' Frederique Constant makes some in-house stuff in this range, but the movements aren't 'better' just different. Maybe some narrowing of the field and increasing of the price range would enhance this thread?
 
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Discussion Starter #19
At 4-5K? What is better made? There are better finished parts than a stock ETA of whatever grade (which is what the first responses demonstrated). Better hairsprings? There are other hairspring makers contracted by companies like Nomos, but they are not 'better' than Nivarox. Escapements? Again, a COSC certified ETA is going to be as good from a time keeping perspective as an ALS. Do you mean just 'different' than ETA? If so, Nomos has in-house movements with their co-developed 'own' spring and some decoration at the 3-6K. Otherwise, be prepared for lots and lots of ETA/Sellita movements with significant decoration/customization/'upgrades.' Frederique Constant makes some in-house stuff in this range, but the movements aren't 'better' just different. Maybe some narrowing of the field and increasing of the price range would enhance this thread?
From the Japanese side any thoughts?
 

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