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The European watch industry kicks off 2015 with a bang!

The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), an invitation only trade show held in Geneva Switzerland kicked off this week. If you'd like to see what the Richemont Group and other select luxury brands plan to release later this year follow our coverage here: SIHH - Salon International De La Haute Horlogerie

What new models are on your radar?
 

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Well, out of what I saw during a very brief look, the ones below caught my eye.






I have long had a "thing" for Piaget and for their stone dial watches.

All the best.
 
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I thought the star of the show was VC's 260th anniversary collection (? harmony).

Montblanc's novelties were quite impressive, though they look suspiciously like JLC watches.

As for watches I might actually buy, the Lange 1 with instantaneous date change, as the slow date change on the current model is the only deal-breaker on an otherwise perfect watch for me. And maybe IWC's 75th anniversary Portuguese hand-winder with small seconds and the date at 6 o'clock, but only the version in rose gold and only if 43 mm fits.
 

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I was just about to start a thread to rant about how people here are not interested in fine watchmaking by neglecting or ignoring SIHH, where Vacheron is making a historical moment with the presentation of Harmony, a new born line. Caliber 3300 is showing to Patek what counts as real improvement on lemania 2310 and screaming to Lange that movement can be good looking without German Silver...where Lange finally give subtle but interesting updates to its 20 year old L1 collections and make Dato much affordable(RG) and Dato perpetual prettier(grey).
 

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I guess there really wasn't many pieces that people liked, hence the lack of discussion. Personally there were a few that I found interesting, the VC split seconds chronograph movement is technically impressive but I am just not a fan of the looks. The De Bethune DB28GS is certainly a very unique sports watch (it also seems to be very hard to tell the time on it). The engraving on the VC Metiers D'art mechaniques gravees is pretty astounding but perhaps a little on the flowery side for my taste. Also considering the amount of work involved, and that no price as been announced, indicates it will probably be out of reach for me. Probably the most impressive for me was the Lange Zeitwerk decimal minute repeater but again, given the price there is little chance of me actually buying one.
In terms of something I might actually buy, the JLC MUT moon steel black dial looked interesting. Supposedly the price should be around $7k which seems pretty reasonable. (a lot of 'borrowed' pics in this post)
 

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I was just about to start a thread to rant about how people here are not interested in fine watchmaking by neglecting or ignoring SIHH, where Vacheron is making a historical moment with the presentation of Harmony, a new born line. Caliber 3300 is showing to Patek what counts as real improvement on lemania 2310 and screaming to Lange that movement can be good looking without German Silver...where Lange finally give subtle but interesting updates to its 20 year old L1 collections and make Dato much affordable(RG) and Dato perpetual prettier(grey).
But it's like a Richemont-only debutante ball. They'll all be back for Baselworld, along with the rest of the industry. There, we'll truly discover whether the coach is a pumpkin.
 

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But it's like a Richemont-only debutante ball. They'll all be back for Baselworld, along with the rest of the industry. There, we'll truly discover whether the coach is a pumpkin.
Normally many SIHH won't go Basel, especially top brands.
 

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I was just about to start a thread to rant about how people here are not interested in fine watchmaking by neglecting or ignoring SIHH, where Vacheron is making a historical moment with the presentation of Harmony, a new born line. Caliber 3300 is showing to Patek what counts as real improvement on lemania 2310 and screaming to Lange that movement can be good looking without German Silver...where Lange finally give subtle but interesting updates to its 20 year old L1 collections and make Dato much affordable(RG) and Dato perpetual prettier(grey).
I think VC really knocked it out of the ballpark this year.

Vacheron-Constantin-Harmony-Ultra-Thin-Grand-Comp.jpg

https://www.watchuseek.com/f496/sihh-2015-lange-s%F6hne-live-report-1466282.html
 

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Just got home last night but I took several hundred pics so there was lots to keep one's interest. For me, the star of the show was easy:

373 small.jpg

Getting the wrist shot was darn difficult. There was one locked in the display and one in the pocket of CEO Charlie Torres which he was personally showing to dealers and press. It wasn't until Thursday that he gave it up to for the rest of us. Worth the wait, though, the piece sits very nicely on the wrist! Aside from the technical merits of the ultra-thin split-second Manufacture caliber, the styling is IMHO an example of when the artists drawings and staged photos don't do the watch full justice; it is very appealing when seen in the metal.
 

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Just got home last night but I took several hundred pics so there was lots to keep one's interest. For me, the star of the show was easy:

View attachment 2721377

Getting the wrist shot was darn difficult. There was one locked in the display and one in the pocket of CEO Charlie Torres which he was personally showing to dealers and press. It wasn't until Thursday that he gave it up to for the rest of us. Worth the wait, though, the piece sits very nicely on the wrist! Aside from the technical merits of the ultra-thin split-second Manufacture caliber, the styling is IMHO an example of when the artists drawings and staged photos don't do the watch full justice; it is very appealing when seen in the metal.
Make me think of Patek 5950. Vc is wilder but thinner and Probably technically superior to the eyes of the trained like mine.
 

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Just got home last night but I took several hundred pics so there was lots to keep one's interest. For me, the star of the show was easy:

[pic deleted]

Getting the wrist shot was darn difficult. There was one locked in the display and one in the pocket of CEO Charlie Torres which he was personally showing to dealers and press. It wasn't until Thursday that he gave it up to for the rest of us. Worth the wait, though, the piece sits very nicely on the wrist! Aside from the technical merits of the ultra-thin split-second Manufacture caliber, the styling is IMHO an example of when the artists drawings and staged photos don't do the watch full justice; it is very appealing when seen in the metal.
I hope you're right. I have to say I am very underwhelmed by the looks of the Harmony watches, but I've only seen pics. From the pics, I look at the Harmony and then I look at the Historiques, 1972, Malte and Metiers d'Art lines and I wonder why folks are all agog over the Harmony's looks. (I get why they are keen on the mechanics.)

Perhaps like VC's Quai de L'ile (QdL) line, the Harmony one doesn't photograph well. I couldn't stand the QdL until I went to the VC boutique and tried one on. I then immediately thought, "Mother of God! This watch is hot!" Prior to that, the only thing I liked about it was it's "have it your way" buying process.



As for the Harmony, I find myself thinking it's the love child of the VC American and the VC QdL. That VC have melded two of their own designs is a good thing, IMO. Far better than adopting the design aesthetic of another maker entirely, and in that regard, nothing for which I would deride them. I guess I just have to try one one someday. I may then change my mind.

One thing I know I don't think will "work" for me is the lopped off nine and three. Why didn't they just leave them off entirely, seeing what little of them is actually there. On the upside, I do really like how VC handled the tachymeter register on the dial. I like that far better than seeing it on an external bezel. Though I've never used a tachymeter, VC's presentation of it in the Harmony seems much more practical for doing so than the external bezel approach insofar as the hands reach all the way to the tachymeter markers.

All the best.

People take different roads seeking fulfillment and happiness. Just because they're not on your road does not mean they are lost.
― Dalai Lama XIV
 
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Perhaps like VC's Quai de L'ile (QdL) line, the Harmony one doesn't photograph well. I couldn't stand the QdL until I went to the VC boutique and tried one on. I then immediately thought, "Mother of God! This watch is hot!" Prior to that, the only thing I liked about it was it's "have it your way" buying process.
I agree with your comments on the QdI (the "I" of l'Ile is capitalized, a French thing). We had some time with the VC design team and I think had a sympathetic ear when putting the case forward for improved WR for the QdI's case, and developing the transparent dial design further instead of those solid dials which IMHO spoil the original concept.
 

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Having tried them on, these were my favorites.

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AP 15400 Two Tone was strange to me on very first glance, but this grew so much on me that its haunting me now :)

IMG_0806.JPG
I have always been on fence about Lange1 because it wore a bit small on my wrist. But what a difference thinning of the bezel made! It fits perfectly and small changes pushed me over the fence.

IMG_0861.JPG
Even though stainless steel version is growing on me, the gold gives the case such warm tone which compliments the darker grey very well.

There were few other watches which were worth admiring, but I chose the watches I could wear everyday.

Cheers,
Bhanu
 
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