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Which tool(s) for removing wristwatch hands? Presto tool or hand tools?

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19K views 27 replies 13 participants last post by  Archer  
#1 ·
I'll be replacing the movement on my TAG 1000 soon. Ive watched a few videos on youtube on how to remove and replace the watch hands. Seems like Hand tools are the preferred method,....

Any opinion on Presto/Plunger style versus hand tools for removing wristwatch hands? Also, Are the Presto/Plunger style and Hand tools offered on eBay usable? This is something I expect to do very infrequently,....so, would prefer to keep my tool cost on the lower end,...but don't want to buy tools that might cause damage or not work at all.
 
#3 ·
Got both, tend to use the Presto more often but you do have to be careful with it. Having said that, you can do a LOT of damage with careless use of a lever as well.

Levers off eBay are probably ok - as long as the tips are smooth and polished, with a sharp enough edge to get under the hands, they can't really fail to work. I've got an odd pair of Anchor brand ones that work every bit as well as my Bergeons, just without the posh finish to the handles (or the price tag).

Forget the cheap Presto copies though. The side springs are generally too weak, and the plunger rarely holds the hands, making it very likely that you'll have them flying across the room because you can't really control the removal with a Presto - when you press hard enough to move them they come off and come off fast!
 
#9 ·
I have the Presto removers, and many sets of hand levers from different makers. I personally use levers almost all the time, as I find I have much more control with them, and I can grip the tube of the hand better with levers also.

The latest set of levers I bought are made by VOH, and they are by far the best set I've ever used:



I service a lot of chronographs like the F. Piguet based Omega shown above (as well as a ton of Speedmasters and other types), and being able to get in under sub-dial hands that are close to the dial and on tightly is important. I have a larger set for the main hands, and a smaller/thinner set for the sub-dial hands. When you do get in under them, having them come off with as little movement of the levers as possible is a good thing, as this keeps the handle of the levers from touching the dial. The VOH levers have a very distinct curve in them that means the tips move upwards quickly with a small movement of the lever handles down towards the dial. Also the back edge of the levers are flat and have no edges that can contact (damage) the dial when in use.

Of course using dial protection is important, and for hands that are raised up off the dial, I raise the levers as well using plastic shims.

Cheers, Al
 
#10 ·
I'm weighing in late here, but I use both with the choice depending upon the circumstances. The "learning curve" for using Presto type is shorter than use of levers. Presto is manipulated with one hand...the other can be used to steady your workpiece. Levers require the use of both hands to develop even pressure...there is a learning curve in developing the "feel" for this...workpiece needs to be stable without need for concomitant manual manipulation. Also, the levers apply pressure over a smaller bearing area than the delrin blocks on the Presto...use dial protection. I use both...but if I were only going to use one, 99% of tasks can be safely accomplished with quality (eg. Bergeon) Presto (the cheap ones are almost guaranteed to damage dials). Regards, BG
 
#13 ·
Simple levers for me.

I use Kapton Polyimide Tape as dial protection, from Dupont the makers of Pithy's Krytox. Either directly on the dial or folded back to itself to form a thicker dial protector and cut a slit etc, if room. I have never found it damages a dial and can be used to remove dust etc in many circumstances like Rodico. Especially good for removing dust from crystals on final builds as you can use a wide piece. So good I use it when making special laminated (Sapphire/mineral glass) crystals to replace beveled crystals that can be difficult to find or only available in mineral glass. Before laminating using UV glue you have to get rid of every spec of dust to ensure you don't end up with any inclusions.

This video, sort of, shows my technique


6mins 6 secs

Tom
 
#14 ·
I use a Bergeon dial protector, but it is too thick for some watches with small clearances.

I also use Archer's method (placing plastic over the hands and dial, then using the levers), which protects the dial from the bottom of the levers and protects the underside of the hands and tubes from the top of the levers.
 
#15 ·
I use levers. Presto tool isn't exact enough for my tastes.

I make my own dial protectors. I use baking parchment paper which is thick cellulose paper impregnated with Teflon. It will be at your local grocery store with the foil and wax paper. Fiskars and others make large hole punches and I got one at my local craft store that makes two inch disks. I use my punch set to make the center hole and scissors to cut a slot. The parchment is perfect with just the right amount of friction and slipperiness.
 
#18 ·
Thank you very much.

I am a wood restoration craftsman by trade and have tens of thousands of pounds worth of the best tools money can buy.

As a novice horologist I am cognisant of the imperative of purchasing the very best tools.

An amateur is far more likely to achieve success with the best tools! An experienced professional can achieve more with less.

As a complete amateur I feel it is important to purchase the very best tools.

The advantage is quality tools depreciate less (or appreciate!) and are easier to sell later on (I have bought and sold tens of thousands of pounds worth)

The ultimate trick is to know when you are paying too much! Experience teaches you the minimum you can get away with.

I will try the link.

Thanks again.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
#23 ·
BenchGuy, I normally cut up a 2"x2" (NEW) bag - the one from any parts house. It goes over the hands, thus it is between any tool and the dial.

I have found that for some dials, sliding a dial protector under the hands, no matter how clean, can damage the finish.

This method is currently being taught at watchmaking schools in the U.S.
 
#24 ·
BenchGuy, I normally cut up a 2"x2" (NEW) bag - the one from any parts house. It goes over the hands, thus it is between any tool and the dial.

I have found that for some dials, sliding a dial protector under the hands, no matter how clean, can damage the finish.

This method is currently being taught at watchmaking schools in the U.S.
I do this too. It keeps the hands together as well as protecting the dial from the presto feet.
Like other posters have said, only Bergeon!
I also have a pair of levers for the few times the Presto won't fit.

Andy

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
#25 ·
The theory on presto tools is that they deform the post of luxury watch hands. In my experience, this is... possible only on the finest of hands - gold Piaget hands, etc.

I mean, I get it. But meh. I do agree that levers offer more control. I also think that levers put more pressure on the dial in a much more viewable area.

Everyone says casing is the hardest part of watchmaking.

Bullocks. Uncasing is the hardest part. Uncasing WELL, rather.