WatchUSeek Watch Forums banner

1 - 20 of 143 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,177 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So the recent thread about boredom and micro's got me thinking....What if someone wanted to start their own brand and actually do something different? Here is a list of OEM manufacturers in HK who might be worth looking at if you wanted to start your own dive watch brand. It’s also of note to see how much actually goes into making a watch from start to finish. You quickly see it's by no means easy to start your own brand.

Some of the manufacturers of many of our beloved micros are listed below. Of course this list is not exhaustive and I know some micros use multiple manufacturers for various lines. Some of this might be outdated so correct me if I'm wrong.

Furitime: NOT halios
Fullswing: Raven, Benarus, Helson, Armida, Crepas?,anyone using the 2000m sub homage case.
Longio: Boschett Cave Dweller, Olivier Bronze diver

In terms of movements you might think Seiko, Miyota, or Seagull/hangzhou are your only viable options. If you're like me however you're slightly biased and want swiss....and it looks like that smaller swiss movement makers are beginning to slowly enter the market and offer alternatives. It's been said before, but one of the main barriers to a new movement maker is the manufacture of the hairspring. It remains to be seen if any of these smaller manufacturers can source non-nivarox hairsprings in order to produce sufficient numbers of movements.

Accurat K1. This movement is very interesting as it's not an ETA 2824 clone. Here's an article about the company EXCLUSIVE - A NEW MOVEMENT - ACCURAT SWISS - Operation.(...)

Soprod
Sellita
Vaucher
Concepto
Technotime
(I know very little about the last three)

You can find most of the information on this blog page. There are also private label/OEM swiss makers listed as well.

https://watchotaku.atlassian.net/wiki/display/swr/Design+and+make+your+own+watch

I think I should say on my part that I'm not bored with micros in the least. I just preordered a Crepas Cayman and couldn't be more stoked.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
974 Posts
It’s also of note to see how much actually goes into making a watch from start to finish. You quickly see it's by no means easy to start your own brand.


Vaucher
Concepto
Technotime
(I know very little about the last three)
I think ''Olivier'' recently showed how not so easy it is, even using an existing Chinese case.

As for using Vaucher movements, you can cross that off your list, unless you have $900 per movement x 300 min order, no exceptions! for their base model.
Tried them myself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,177 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I think ''Olivier'' recently showed how not so easy it is, even using an existing Chinese case.

As for using Vaucher movements, you can cross that off your list, unless you have $900 per movement x 300 min order, no exceptions! for their base model.
Tried them myself.
Wow...Not cheap at all. I wonder in time if that might come down. I also wonder what companies are currently using that movement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
Furitime? Not even close. These dudes put up pictures of watches they had nothing to do with...I asked them to take down a picture of the Puck but now I see they've got the Holotype on there.

I have never worked with them, but if you're planning a project, I'd suggest steering clear if this is how they run their game.

Now you know, and knowing is half the battle (yo Joe).

Jason
Halios
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,177 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
My mistake Jason. I had seen furitime mentioned a few times elsewhere along with halios and made the assumption. There are other OEM manufacturers who do the same thing with other well known watches they have nothing to do with. (See million smart enterprises).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,728 Posts
"Who makes your micro?"
Very good question, a full disclosure is always much appreciated especially when you buy a "Swiss made" micro diver.
Steinhart says that, case, dial, crystal, hands, crown and crown tube of my OVM are manufactured in Switzerland, the bracelet made in Germany, by WHO is unknown.
We all know what the Swiss made regulation says in regard, so we are clearly in murky waters here.
As far as I know, the Borealis Francis Drake made in China by the way, shares the same case and bracelet design, bezel, crystal and movement are different, the price is almost the same.
The Steinhart seems of course a better value, since it looks more refined, and it has a better movement.
My question is, which manufacturer makes the Francis Drake in China? haven't been able to find any info out there.
Is it possible that they are outsourcing parts from Europe because they cost less than having them manufactured in China? or they are simply copycatting the O1 design?
One thing is for sure, to have a quality product manufactured in Switzerland, Germany or Italy, it doesn't have to be necessarily expensive like in many think, heck I have bought a top quality screwdriver made by Wiha in Germany for 3 Euros only, a China made screwdriver would cost me 2 Euros, not sure about the quality though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
974 Posts
One thing is for sure, to have a quality product manufactured in Switzerland, Germany or Italy, it doesn't have to be necessarily expensive like in many think, heck I have bought a top quality screwdriver made by Wiha in Germany for 3 Euros only, a China made screwdriver would cost me 2 Euros, not sure about the quality though.
There is a Swiss screw driver, then there is a ''Swiss Screw Driver'' two very different screw drivers!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,728 Posts
There is a Swiss screw driver, then there is a ''Swiss Screw Driver'' two very different screw drivers!
Good one! LOL

Speaking of Swiss screwdrivers, I have paid 8,45 Euros including VAT of course to get a "first quality" violet Bargeon 1,60mm flat head to resize my bracelets.
Tell you what, it sucks! The blade is too sharp and doesn't fit the screw head properly, furthermore the grip is very poor, long story short if you are lazy, chances are you are going to scratch screw-head and bracelet.
The Wiha blade and handle simply put the Swiss Bargeon screwdriver to shame.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,418 Posts
Good one! LOL

Speaking of Swiss screwdrivers, I have paid 8,45 Euros including VAT of course to get a "first quality" violet Bargeon 1,60mm flat head to resize my bracelets.
Tell you what, it sucks! The blade is too sharp and doesn't fit the screw head properly, furthermore the grip is very poor, long story short if you are lazy, chances are you are going to scratch screw-head and bracelet.
The Wiha blade and handle simply put the Swiss Bargeon screwdriver to shame.
Well, after all, there is Bergeon, and then there's Bargeon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,728 Posts
I have owned a ton of micros. Dagaz imo is the best that I have own. Great low maintenance seiko driven. The classic was by far the micro i have owned. period. bar-none. I do have an MKII in bound and I have a sneaking suspicion that its going to be awesome as well. You can get a used dagaz for a very reasonable price though.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
4,512 Posts
The only micro I have is the Squale 20 atm, No idea where they make these but it is a very high quality case. I have an Orange watch Milsub on order with a Soprod A-10 {Seiko base movement from what I've heard} that I hope to get soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,418 Posts
My bad, just a misspell. LOL

It's a Bergeon and unfortunately it's real, sometimes 'expensive' or 'Swiss made' does not mean better quality.

View attachment 1390237
To be honest, for hardened steel blade products like cutters and screwdrivers, I usually go with Japan-made (maybe it's their long history of sword making? ;-) ) In my experience (and I use this stuff everyday) they last longer and break less often. Case in point, I've been using the same pair of Japanese cutters for the past 3 years and the blades look like the day I bought them. I used to go through a pair every couple of months.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
974 Posts
Well, after all, there is Bergeon, and then there's Bargeon.
Bergeon out source by the wa, so no idea where each product is made.
I have the Bergeon ''Ultimate'' set I think they were called, and they are really nice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,418 Posts
Bergeon out source by the wa, so no idea where each product is made.
I have the Bergeon ''Ultimate'' set I think they were called, and they are really nice.
You're half right. It's a bit tricky. The products that are outsourced simply do not state country of manufacture anywhere on the
product or the packaging, while the Swiss made products indicate "SWISS MADE"
 
1 - 20 of 143 Posts
Top