Good evening all
today had to be a Seiko
today had to be a Seiko
I think that is Pure Classs northside,I am a fan of RGM Watch Co. in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. About 16 months ago I ordered an 801-CE (classic enamel), and was told the build time would be 12-15 months. This was OK with me since it is an entirely in-house, hand made watch. It actually took over 16 months, but Roland at RGM kept me up to date on the progress along the way.
The watch has the in-house RGM 801 hand wound movement. It is designed with elements of the classic American railroad watches of yesteryear. It is highly polished and winds with an audible click. The dial is double sunk glass that is entirely hand enameled. It is truly a work of art. It has blued steel Breguet hands.
I am now wearing the watch, and I am happy to support this kind of American craftsmanship. It has been about 60 years since the Hamilton Watch Co. was bought by a Swiss Co. and moved from Lancaster to Switzerland so they could use Swiss movements in the watches of this venerable American Co. The beautiful old red brick Hamilton factory is now just a historic landmark in Lancaster. Roland Murphy and his RGM team are bringing some of the old craft back to Lancaster.
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another very very classy and elegant watch ,View attachment 17323251 The original
What a collection Sir ,1955, one of the last of the bubble backs - I wanted an early movement and bubble back case to go in my 'technology corner', where I have various examples of the journey to the modern wristwatch starting with a Demier Fr. wristwatch with soldered lugs (Demier Freres registered the design for a watch worn on the wrist secured by a captive one-piece strap threaded each way through wire lugs in 1904 IIRC correctly). The registered idea was basicaly to take a hunter movement and dial (crown at three), put it in a savonette case (which usually had the crown at 12) and solder on a pair of lugs - the watch strap was open both ends with a circular pad under the case back, and a ladder buckle retro-fitted to one end after fitting to the watch - I nearly bought an old watch just for the strap!
Here's my Demier Fr. from 1918.
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You can see it had hinges - Rolex were early wrestlers with the problem of water ingress, and here is an improvement they had already manufactured by 1914 - the knurling on the bezel has almost worn off, but you can still see the traces at 9.00:
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Once Wilsdorf spotted a workable patent for a waterproof crown, the Oyster case was born - screw front and back and crown - this is late 20's early 30's, still with wire lugs:
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It needed a tricky de-coupling of the winding stem so you didn't overwind the watch when screwing it in - it doesn't wobble like the Vostok crown because it has a spring to push the crown out (you have to exert the outward pressure yourself to wind a Vostok - everyone thinks they have bought a broken watch ha ha ha ha ha). Anyway, Harwood had the same problem preventing his automatic watch from overwinding once full, his first 'clutch' effort was his own, but later movements used a slip bridle that released the spring from its pinion at a certain torque - later put in manual watches as 'an unbreakable mainspring'. Anyway, here is my Harwood, still working, say 1929, first series production automatic wristwatch:
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Th marque on the dial was owned by Victor Gisiger (Selza SA) who Harwood stayed with in Switzerland - must be one of the eariest watches to say 'Automatic' on the dial (the Harwood branded versions etc. said 'self winding'). It has no crown and was supposed to be waterproof - he was trying to create a waterproof watch, ended up 'inventing' the automativ wristwatch, because he wanted to get rid of the hle in thecase caused by the winding setting stem. You set the hands by turning the bezel. No hand winding.
Nearly forgot my Services watch about 1925 - nothing special about the movement etc. but the case is very much purpose designed to be a wristwatch, with the integrated strap bars:
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Meanwhile, here is another Harwood designed automatic, the Autorist - the movement of the lower strap bar as you wear the watch winds the main sring by a hing, pawl, ratchet type thingummy.
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Here is a very early example of a watch with a date wheel - the wheel was not concentric with the dial, its pinion is somewhere top right, but well before the Datejust.
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About 1937, the clamshell case was supposed to be a rival to the Oyster, it wasn't, although it survived longer as a solution for rectangular watches:
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But most famously used in the 'Wandfluh' chronograph.
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About 1940, Taubert's (who bought Borgel) waterproof case with special cork stem seal:
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1941 - first watch with a time recording bezel, although in this instance the idea was to set zero to the seconds hand in conjunction with the radio time signal (because no hacking seconds)
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and so I obviously needed a Rolex Perpetul - purportedly the first automatic watch to use a 360 degree rotor (as opposed to a bumper or hammer auto that rotated this way and that between stops). If you don't count this:
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If you are interested, you can read more here:
Hope you like my techno watches!
My Harwood automatic watchI'd been researching John Harwood as he was also born in Bolton and is the inventor of the automatic wristwatch. Unfortunately he has never received the widespread recognition he deserved. Amongst his other inventions are an early impact screwdriver, an automatic pistol and a card table with a...www.thewatchforum.co.uk
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Thanks Russ,I like it more n more each time you post it, G.
That's a really good shot too !
I know that ( gutted ) feeling Keith,I will never have another house with tile floors. Any and everything that drops on them breaks. My wife dropped her Rado ceramic and snapped a lug off. That just a month ago. All our glasses break....I hate those floors.
I think your right. The hr hand needs to be re set. I have not messed with the hands before. Maybe I'll get a hand removal tool and do it myself. Don't know. Right now it's Jack on the Rocks and a nice IPA.
Ha ha , some of my friends will be like that today😂😂To all our Irish contributors who may be celebrating today:
Happy birthday mate 🎂🥃🍾🍷Thanks Manny. I already am. Where the heck is that half in the bag smiley face?!