An Omega replacement crystal would not lessen the value of the watch. Did you order an Original Omega crystal or a generic? Note that plastic crystals without cracks or crazing can frequently be restored to almost original condition with some sanding & polishing with a product like Polywatch.

The 591 movement is considered by Kreuzer (Omega Designs) as less expensive to manufacture (presumably as compared to the 55X/56X series). You don't see it used much in Seamaster model watches.

 

I have a small table-mounted buffing wheel/grinder that has cleaned up almost every scuffed and scratched plastic crystal watch I've had perfectly.
Your local watch repair also might be able to do this for you if you don't have one.

 

Thank you for the replies.
I do not have a buffer/grinder so I will try sanding and polishing. I do however have a dremel multi tool, but I asume that the high rpm most probably could cause overheat and melting. I have used polywatch before and found it not so very effective, but I guess sanding with a fine grit paper before using polywatch would make a difference.
I did order an original Omega crystal (at least I believe so). Do they all have the omega sign stamped in the center as the old crystal has? If the new one I ordered is original, I will probably use it if my polishing process fails to give the wanted result.
Why was'nt the 591 caliber used more often, was it a flop?

Regards
Ketil

 

Thank you for the replies.
I do not have a buffer/grinder so I will try sanding and polishing. I do however have a dremel multi tool, but I asume that the high rpm most probably could cause overheat and melting. I have used polywatch before and found it not so very effective, but I guess sanding with a fine grit paper before using polywatch would make a difference.
Regards
Ketil

Yes, I have a Dremel also, and even more than the tendency to overheat the surface, it also only does a small area, so easy to gouge a trough in your crystal. A larger buffing wheel (like a 7") will evenly buff it out. I also purchased a bar of a mild rubbing compound that I used for buffing Plexy. This works well to remove the marks and keep the heat down.

Buffer/grinders are pretty inexpensive at DIY centers like Home Depot.
I get a lot of use from mine, and it was one I found for $5 in a yard sale.

 

Yes, if a crystal has lots of deep scratches working with Polywatch wil take a long time (since it is a very fine abrasive). Using some, say 600, sandpaper first will speed up the process. Polywatch does produce a very smooth finish much better than something like Brasso.

Don't use a Dremel. As you guess it is very likely to melt the crystal.

If your new crystal cost around $20 it is likely an original Omega crystal. A generic crystal wound be around $4-5. An original Omega crystal should have the Omega symbol in the center and come in Omega packaging. Do you know how to install the new crystal?

Here's what Heinz Hampel says about the 590 family in "Automatic Wristwatches from Switzerland":

"With a new design, Caliber 590 ff, the firm tried in 1960 to offer a reasonably-priced automatic movement that was especially designed for large-series production and turned out to be considerably thicker (than the 55X series). The satellite-wheel lock was replaced here by simpler twin click wheels with leaf springs."

It would appear that the need for this movement might have been overestimated by Omega particularly given the success the 55X/56X movements had. Who wants a cheaper Omega watch?

 

The crystal costed $30 and figured in the order as a "genuine omega crystal with a white ring". Probably the real thing.
I have changed several generic crystals before using a crystal lift tool, but never one with a metal ring. Guess the procedure is the same.

You are refering to Heinz Hampel, and I did a search on him. Came up with a hit on Amazone with "Automatic Armbanduhren aus Deutschland, England, Frankreich, Japan, Rußland, USA". Is this a book you recommend for a hobbyist?

 

Jules Borel has the Omega crystal for $25.50 and the crown for $22.60 ;<)

I'm not sure if your watch has a removable bezel or not. If it does then Omega often integrated their armored crystals with the bezel via a slot around the circumference of the crystal. When the bezel is removed the crystal comes off as well. If the bezel is not removable then it is a standard compression crystal installation.

A crystal press is a must for working with compression ring (armored) crystals. The crystal lift is not very useful here. The metal ring prevents the lift from effectively compressing the crystal (the point of the ring is to prevent the crystal from shrinking over time and thereby improves water resistance).

Heinz Hampel has written two books on automatic watches:

"Automatic Wristwatches from Switzerland" - 1994
and the book you mentioned.

I have both these books. They are quite good and, if you are interested in automatic mechanisms, very interesting. Both should still be available.

 

Thanks again for useful replies.

Guess that I am in the need for a crystal press. I am not sure if my watch has a removeable bezel, but I will scruitinize it closely and find out.

Looks like my little hobby is growing steadily. Started out with a few screwdrivers, some loupes, screwdiver carusel, a shoebox full of old watces and a couple of books about watch repair- and now I need a buffer/grinder and two more books. I like it. This is fun.:-!