I was told there wasn't going to be any more math.

 

Now searching Straton, Helgray, and Geckota

 

Straton 40mm
Helgray 42mm

 

Those look great, but unfortunately do not have a 30 minute dial or an hour totalizer, which is what I'm looking for.

 

41mm

 

I like those too, but again, no hour tracking through a totalizer or bezel.

 

OK, think I've found it
38mm

 

The Maen Skymaster is produced in four or five different versions. All of them are 38mm

 

A used or pre-ordered Lorier Gemini.

 

Yup, that one is on the list. Thanks

 

Check out Hemel and Dan Henry brands. I'd post specific models but I'm not into chronos and have no idea what "totalizer" even is. I believe each company offers models with 12hr or rotating bezels, though.

 

Hemel is on my list with the airfoil and air wing. The only Dan Henry I saw with the totalizer is the maverick one, which I'm not a huge fan of. Totalizer is just the dial that adds up the hours. The 63 has the bezel and looks ok, but I prefer the Hemel. Wish the 62 or 64 came with it.

 

Just a suggestion in case you're considering vintage options.
Citizen 8110 bullhead. It's 37mm, automatic, day-date, and the subldials are minutes and hours chrono. Fits the budget as well, but I'm aware it might not be everyone's cup of tea.

Greetings
Eryk

 

Some of the ETA 251.xxx movements might be interesting and have a large minute counter. I went on a hunt a few years ago and collected a few Breitlings, a Tag, and a few Swiss Army with them. They are distinguished by a main dial minute counter under the seconds counter, have a small second dial, small 1/10 second counter, and small 12-hour counter, for example. I really like this central minutes function.

Here's a couple I found pretty quickly by filtering on price, chronograph, and quartz:

Certina DS Master Chronograph Quartz Chronometer Black Dial Men's Watch C0154342705000 7612307126234 - Watches - Jomashop

Certina DS 2 Chronograph Black Dial Men's Watch C024.447.11.051.02 7612307133928 - Watches, DS-2 - Jomashop

You can see the hand arrangement in this photo:

Breitling, Swiss Army, TAG, Certina used these ETA 251.xxx movements in several watches and there may be other brands too.

It's a cool movement and quite accurate and mine have been rocking for several years, with, ironically, the Breitling being the only one I had to have serviced.

ETA caliber 251.233 - ETA Caliber 251.233 COSC Watch Movement | Caliber Corner

There are other ETA 251.xxx variants that are similar.

 

Some of the ETA 251.xxx movements might be interesting and have a large minute counter. I went on a hunt a few years ago and collected a few Breitlings, a Tag, and a few Swiss Army with them. They are distinguished by a main dial minute counter under the seconds counter, have a small second dial, small 1/10 second counter, and small 12-hour counter, for example. I really like this central minutes function.

Here's a couple I found pretty quickly by filtering on price, chronograph, and quartz:

Certina DS Master Chronograph Quartz Chronometer Black Dial Men's Watch C0154342705000 7612307126234 - Watches - Jomashop

Certina DS 2 Chronograph Black Dial Men's Watch C024.447.11.051.02 7612307133928 - Watches, DS-2 - Jomashop

You can see the hand arrangement in this photo:
View attachment 17265270

Breitling, Swiss Army, TAG, Certina used these ETA 251.xxx movements in several watches and there may be other brands too.

It's a cool movement and quite accurate and mine have been rocking for several years, with, ironically, the Breitling being the only one I had to have serviced.

ETA caliber 251.233 - ETA Caliber 251.233 COSC Watch Movement | Caliber Corner

There are other ETA 251.xxx variants that are similar.

I'll have to take a closer look at this. I looked into the certina, but it seemed like the 2 big chrono hands were 60 seconds, and sub-seconds (one full rotation per second). It's possible I saw a sped up shot though. The link is saying they are central seconds and minute hands, then that would be great. Maybe the DS2 is different than the DS Master, or the video I saw was sped up. I'll definitely see other options for that, as I love the idea and have been lusting after the damasko and sinn options with the same central minutes concept.

 

Thank you for all of the suggestions! I'll dig through them all when I have time later. The Maen is new to me, and I just discovered the certina as well. I'll look into the other brands posted as well.

I have seen those vintage citizens, and while they are very cool, I'd like to live with something a bit more normal and affordable first, before I commit and go bigger on something more interesting like that.

 

Closest I can think of is the Tsao Constellation: It's a Mechaquartz with a 60minute sub-dial, a 24 hour sub dial (day/night dial), no seconds, and a 12 hour bezel

Constellation Chrono-Diver

Tsao Baltimore is an American watch company based in Baltimore, Maryland. We specialize in high quality timepieces with designs inspired around Baltimore and its history.

tsaobaltimore.com

I have one, and I like it well enough - but it may not be quite what you're looking for. That said, they're only $450.

 

I would prefer a 30 minute sub, but that thing does look cool! I think the combo of 60 minute sub, 24 hour sub, and no seconds is all 3 things I wouldn't like. Nice looking piece though!

 

If you need seconds, minutes and hours on a wrist watch usually that means you need a three sub dial watch and the two most likely to be around in abundance would be the Omega Speedmaster of course and anything with a Valjoux 7750 movement. Of course you would be looking for pre owned, older, examples in the $500 price range. There are also many derivations of the Valjoux 7750 example the Hamilton H-21 Longines L624 and many , many more. Look here on the watchbase website, and you will see many Valjoux 7750 movement watches. Also, Here is a beautiful IWC with a Valjoux 7750 to keep you focused

ETA caliber 7750 » WatchBase

Full details and images of the ETA caliber 7750, including a list of all watches using this movement.

watchbase.com

 

This website is amazing, thank you. I assumed watches with this movement would be a future purchase, outside of my "testing" budget. I would also prefer a 3,6,9 layout like the speedmasters. Also surprised to see 5030 missing from the ronda movements, that seems to be the one in looking for.

 

Try the Messerschmitt 108. Long Island Watches has them for 265 USD. 30 minute and 12 hour subdials, plus small seconds. It uses a Ronda 5030. There are other Messerschmitt chronographs there too; all use the 5030.

Edit: Fixed the link

 

Good one, thank you! I like the aviator style ones. Adding to my list!

 

Check out Ebay for 7750 chronographs.
Hamilton Jazzmasters go for about $450.

Hamilton Men's Watch H32616133

Buy Hamilton Jazzmaster men's Watch H32616133 today to add to your collection or as a perfect gift for that special person. Free shipping on all domestic orders. Check out Ashford's full selection of luxury men's and women's watches.

www.ashford.com

 

Bummer on the DS2. I really like the DS Master, but I think 45mm would look ridiculous on my 6.3" wrist. I'm seeing so many cool options outside my budget, but I think I need to stick with a smaller budget this time to get a feel for the size and functions before going bigger. I'd hate to spend 1k+ and realize I don't really use chronos and prefer my dive bezel. I appreciate all the great options so far, and would still love to hear more if you got any!

 

I discovered the Ronda 5030 movements have exactly what I'm after. I'm having trouble finding watches that use Ronda movements, though.

invicta uses the 5030 a lot.

sorry, but it's true.

 

I bought this Pagani Design Sports/Dive watch last fall and enjoy wearing it every day. I think it has everything you are looking
for and the price is now only $71. Uses Seiko VK64 meca quartz, 316L stainless, and syth. Sapphire crystal. Can be ordered
with either the shown strap or a nice metal strap for more $$. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...er_list.order_list_main.74.41a11802Pdh795&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US

 

Appreciate the suggestion, but I don't see a 30 minute subdial or a 12 hour counter/bezel..

 

Looks like reading comprehension is worse than usually here today.

Seiko announced these 8T67s recently:

They're under 40mm and though they have a 60 minute totalizer, they also have a 12 hour totalizer. I like the SSB419 the most since it's pretty sedate looking.

 

Looks like reading comprehension is worse than usually here today.

Seiko announced these 8T67s recently:

They're under 40mm and though they have a 60 minute totalizer, they also have a 12 hour totalizer. I like the SSB419 the most since it's pretty sedate looking.

View attachment 17270095

Yeah, not sure how many times I need to keep clarifying... it's right in the title after all.

Anyhow, the 8t67/vk67 was mentioned in my original post. They are definitely on my radar. I need to see a 60 minute sub dial in person to see how tough they are to read. Also, not sure if it's because of the movement itself, but most of the ones I've looked into wound up being like 44mm+, which would be tough on my wrist. I still have the search saved though, and open to finding one that works for me.

 

BTW, if you want to consider the Seagull ST19 manual wind movement, this is a great presentation of it in a Phylida (a new quality brand) that is 40mm
and a double domed Sapphire crystal. Comes in a variety of designs. $171 and a $6 coupon. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255...rtLeaderboard_2003544403015.4001278703501&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US

 

BTW, if you want to consider the Seagull ST19 manual wind movement, this is a great presentation of it in a Phylida (a new quality brand) that is 40mm
and a double domed Sapphire crystal. Comes in a variety of designs. $171 and a $6 coupon. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255801092388749.html?gps-id=pcStoreLeaderboard&scm=1007.22922.271278.0&scm_id=1007.22922.271278.0&scm-url=1007.22922.271278.0&pvid=ddeeae22-77e3-423e-91cb-0696e32aa273&_t=gps-idcStoreLeaderboard,scm-url:1007.22922.271278.0,pvid:ddeeae22-77e3-423e-91cb-0696e32aa273,tpp_buckets:668#2846#8110#1995&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id":"12000027887213289","sceneId":"12922"}&pdp_npi=3@dis!USD!285.0!171.0!!!!!@210312eb16773386475714262efcb5!12000027887213289!rec!US!1834181411&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.smartLeaderboard_2003544403015.4001278703501&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US View attachment 17270096 View attachment 17270096

I did mention this movement as well in my original post. I know it shows a 12 hour subdial, but it's not a totalizer here, it just duplicates the reading of the hour hand on the main dial. It serves no purpose other than design. I got really excited when another with this movement was linked above, but the 12 hour timing is not available with this one.

 

@Bcb75, this is a great thread and I support you on your quest. The Maen mentioned above seems to be a good option.

Regarding your comments about how discernible a 60-minute counter is, this might be helpful. This watch isn’t what you’re looking for, but it demonstrates how easy it is—or not—to see individual minutes on these sub-dials.

The 6 o’clock sub-dial on this displays either a second time zone or a chronograph. When in chronograph mode, it has a dual-mounted hour and minute hand, so telling elapsed time on the chronograph is as easy as reading a normal clock. (So if it says 12:21 am, that means 0 hours 21 minutes elapsed.)

Anyway, the reason is I took these photos a minute apart to show the travel of the sub-dial minute hand. This one only has markings every five minutes, but even so I don’t have too much trouble figuring it out.

For what it’s worth, I like the idea of what you’re looking for as well. It’s appealing to consider a larger, 30-minute sub-dial, and a 12-hour bezel that can work for a second time zone or for counting hours. [emoji1303]

Good luck!

 

The seiko 7t92 movement has the same setup with that 2 handed dial at the 6 position. That is what I ordered from ebay and will open when I get home today. If that works for me, it will open a few more options, but its still not that common either.

 

The watch arrived. I think this might be a bit on the small side. It's a 7T92-0BB0. I dig the aesthetics of it, but the case is some where between 36.x and 37.x depending on the source. I'm not finding a ton about it. I let the chrono run for several minutes and it's good for a rough idea at a glance, but seeing down to the minute seems like a bit of a chore. It's possible a larger face could help, but I still think a 30 minute sub would be the way to go. This is a good experiment for me though, to play with dimensions and see how I actually use the chrono over the next couple weeks.

 

Oh, another thing I forgot to mention.. I enjoy how the minute hand steps forward at the end of each minute, instead of sweeping along. Definitely aids with nailing down which hash it is pointing at. After a bit of measuring personally, and a little more research, I think the case may actually be between 37.5 and 38mm. My batteries are dead on my calipers..