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BB54 or Pelagos 39mm ?

BB54 or Pelagos 39mm ?

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9.5K views 33 replies 28 participants last post by  blancpainsimp68  
#1 ·
I am looking for a light, smaller, unobtrusive watch to wear when I wearing a t-shirt or just casual and not to worry about my high value Rolex's.

I love these two watches. The Pelagos seems better for swimming/travelling with its scratch proof ceramic bezel, but on the other hand, has a titanium body more prone to scratches. It looks more robust and perhaps cooler. On the other hand, the BB54 is more beautiful, I love the gilt highlights. It is also thinner and more jewelry like.

Before you ask, I like the BB58 as well, however I prefer the clasp on the BB54 and P39, and also the lighter nature of both.

If I had the money I would buy both

What do you guys think ?
 
#2 ·
Personally, I would go for P39. It ticks all the boxes - and although you said you like the gilt on the 54, I always thought it looked weird without the colour matched markings on the bezel (unlike the 58, which has gold tone markings on the bezel as well). The gold tone throughout and the red triangle tie the 58 together, whereas to me the 54 just looks boring.
 
#3 ·
Given your use case, I’d argue Black Bay > Pelagos. I own a BB58 and a full size Pelagos and the 58 may be the ultimate daily diver going right now.
 
#6 ·
I owned both. Both have fantastic dials!! Both kept great time. Great clasp on both.

When the P39 came out, there was chat here about the lume popping out of the bezel on some Pelagos models. To my knowledge, that has never been an issue with the P39. My biggest complaint was the sharp edges on the clasp. Not a big deal for me, but if I had kept it I would have lightly sanded the edges a bit.

I like vintage sized watches, even though my wrist pushes 7.5". So when I saw the BB54 coming out, I was really interested. Loved the bezel insert. Loved the size. Perfect in my mind. But I just rarely wear dive style watches, no matter the size. So I let it go. No issues... best dive style watch I've owned.

A little regret selling either one, really.

Both are 200m watches. It's a coin toss. I'd buy either in a weak moment. My vote was for the BB54. Good Luck!!
 
#7 ·
I like both but I prefer the BB54. It just takes the BB58 and refines it to another level.

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#15 ·
I’m with you. I don’t care about scratches particularly on a casual everyday watch. I have the blue Pelagos and love it. It’s light and comfortable. I have tried the 39 on and it would make a great casual watch. The 39 gets my vote. OP might want to wait for W&W to see if another colour way comes out….
 
#11 ·
I vote the Pelagos 39, and was very close to buying one myself. But I actually went with the blue BB58. Two reasons: 1) it’s very cheap on used market now and I got one for less than $2,500 in decent condition, 2) I think the clasp on the P39 is just too big, which I may be in minority on that one but it actually was a deal breaker for me on my smaller wrist. The BB58 clasp is nice and small (although I sacrifice the micro-adjust).

The BB54 is fine and people love it, but just a touch too small. I think the 39mm case on the P39 and BB58 is ideal size for a dive watch.
 
#13 ·
I own (and love) my BB58, black/gilt. Lovely watch, and honestly, I prefer wearing to to my Starbucks Sub, as it is lighter, smaller, more comfortable and attracts way less attention Tried on a 54 recently at my AD. Wears even better than my 58. Great clasp. If they put the 58 bezel on the 54, I'd buy one (I am a sucker for the red triangle). I've never seen a Pelagos 39 in person, but my AD is not a fan of that watch.
 
#22 ·
Imho BB54 has a personality and an intrinsec and historic value, as far as the owner is concerned, not for the others. A small and thin package for a robust precise mechanical watch with great water resistance is something that always represented class and value in the luxury segment.

The Pelagos 39 is a trendy watch good for posing “perfect” pictures on the internet hype wagon. A “tool” watch full of trivial details like the silly sunburst some photos try so hard not to picture, cheap looking hands and disproportionate lume, cutting edge for real clasp, etc

Modern and actual, as you say… except the old concept when someone buys a watch for himself (not for the others/forums).
 
#17 ·
I was able to try on the BB58, BB54, and the Pelagos 39 during the same visit. Went back and forth several times having trouble decided the AD noticed which one I kept going back to and said something. She was right, I walked out with Pelagos 39. As far as scratches, the bracelet and clasp do pick them up, but the watch head is mint after about 10 months.

Of the 3 for me it’s Pelagos 39>BB58>BB54. I really like the 54, but I think it would have looked better with the same color scheme as the gilt 58. I would however Like to try it on the rubber strap, but have yet to see that one.
 
#19 ·
pretty subjective question at the end of the day it’s really up to you.

the only point I can add is the bb54 at least looks a little more visually distinct. not every day you see a 36mm-ish thin dive style watch.

The p39 when viewed from afar is muted and kind of looks like any other dive watch.

I would say hold off on any purchases until watches and wonders announcements are over. Im not saying they will but I wouldn’t be surprised if Tudor announced a blue bb54. That to me would be more interesting
 
#29 ·
If I may, a seiko sje093
I like it a lot, looks great, nice size, and no 'X' on the dial (I'd buy a homage before buying a X on a dial watch).

But as T1meout says....
You certainly may, but the problem is the Seiko is pretty much sold out and is unobtainable.
Yes. I bet I could buy a BB54 or P39 tomorrow morning when the stores open.
 
#33 ·
Both are nice. I voted for the Pelagos as I prefer the 58 over the 54. I went with a 58 bc the gilt was something different for me that I liked and I love the pop of red in the bezel. The 58 had the edge for me over the Pelagos in the fact I liked that it leaned a little more dressy & had the 20mm lug width.

The 58 was also my first step back into wearing bracelets again so I'm not an aficionado, but I've never understood the complaints over the rivets. I'm normally pretty particular and I've never paid attention to that enough to bother me. I just know the bracelet fits my smaller wrist pretty comfortably.
 
#34 ·
I oscillated a lot over a few months (between the P39, the BB58 and the BB54) and ultimately went with the P39. It's just significantly more interesting. The titanium makes it essentially disappear on the wrist. I love the brushed ceramic - it's just very unique. I prefer the square markers and have always been a fan of that style of milsub. The 54 is wonderful and it's a great, classically valid size but for my tastes it was awkwardly small for a dive watch. I say that as the proud owner and wearer of a couple sub-38mm watches (Longines Spirit, OP34).

I have comically small wrists and the P39 fits BEAUTIFULLY. It's thin, it's light, it's compact, and more subtly the totally flat caseback means the lugs hug very tightly to the wrist and that makes it both more comfortable and more compact across the flat-width. The 58 wore larger on my wrist because of the longer lug profile.

It borders on being the absolute perfect daily, tooly, "beater", one-and-done, whatever-you-want-to-call-it watch, with some really interesting twists. I absolutely adore it.