I have a scratch pen also and it takes a little practice to use correctly. I expose about 4-5mm of the brush. Expose too much and you will not get enough pressure on the metal to do anything because it bends too easy. The bristles will also likely break. Expose too little and you risk scratching your watch with the metal "claw" that holds the bristles in place.

You also need to loosen (slightly break apart) the bristles before using in order to get the most uniform finish. I gently press the tip of the brush against a table and slowing roll the pen.

Brush parallel to the existing brush lines, only in one direction and continous motion, as if you are applying paint. Don't brush back and forth.

You will find that the scratch pen will work only on superficial scuffs/scratches. It will have little or no effect on deeper scratches.

The brass tip maybe is used to remove rust, which is the original purpose of these scratch pens.

 

Exactly as above...and also

make sure the motion you use is in one direction and to tape off what you do not want to brush. It will brush polished surfaces.

If the scratches are too deep, then you'll need a machine. The Shino brushed surface product works quite well, too. I've had very surprisingly good results with both the Bergeon and the Shino product.

 

Cool thanks. I might brave it later

 

Morning Dommorton - just an additional thought that was noted above, but less directly - go easy. Very gentle brushing with the "grain" of the metal. No sweat on this, I've used those pens on my 2254, on the Ti X-33, etc., they work great. Just go easy, light strokes in one direction with the grain, you'll be fine.

 

Thanks I'll do just that

 

Main thing to remember when attempting any type of restoration,,,

Repeat after me...Take your time, take your time :-!

Glen

 

Xome good tips here, but also...

Fragments of those little fiberglass filaments can cause discomfort, rashes etc. Good idea to lay newspaper over the workspace and use gloves and eye protection.

 

Re: Xome good tips here, but also...

Fragments of those little fiberglass filaments can cause discomfort, rashes etc. Good idea to lay newspaper over the workspace and use gloves and eye protection.

Ditto this. I don't bother with the gloves (good idea just the same) but certainly the paper over the workspace - there won't be a lot of loose fibers, but enough that this is a good idea.

 

Re: Xome good tips here, but also...

Well I went for it last night.

Initial results weren't great as I could see start and stop marks as well as slightly curving lines.

With some practice and frequent very careful one way passes I soon had it looking almost as good as new again. I'm still not 100% happy as there are still some slightly curved lines. Seems almost impossible to keep a straight line on all passes.

I'll give it another go at some point and if still not totally happy I'll just use it on the bracelet and maybe buy one of those watchbrandnew kits for the clasp.

 

Re: Xome good tips here, but also...

I'm still not 100% happy as there are still some slightly curved lines. Seems almost impossible to keep a straight line on all passes. I'll give it another go at some point and if still not totally happy I'll just use it on the bracelet and maybe buy one of those watchbrandnew kits for the clasp.

In my experience, no matter what you use, you are never going to exactly duplicate the factory finish. Those are done by machines which will do a better job than any human can, no matter how steady your hands.

What you are describing is one of the big limitations of the fiberglass scratch pen. Due to the narrow tip, you have to make several passes along the length and width of the clasp to cover the scratch. It is impossible for a human to get all the overlapping brush strokes straight and parallel to each other. It is like trying to draw a line freehand.

I get the best results using a rust eraser. One pass covers the entire width of the clasp since the piece used can be as wide as the clasp. It also helps to secure the bracelet in place, if you are not already doing so.

FWIW, below is my refinished clasp. I would conservatively say my job is around 95% as good as the original factory finish. I have steady hands.:-!

 

Re: Xome good tips here, but also...

Hmm did wonder if that would be the case.

I've seen your guide here before but we don't have Sandflex blocks in the UK. I've been looking in local hardware shops to see if there is anything similar but so far not found anything. Would a fine grit sandpaper not offer similar results?

 

Re: Xome good tips here, but also...

I've seen your guide here before but we don't have Sandflex blocks in the UK. I've been looking in local hardware shops to see if there is anything similar but so far not found anything. Would a fine grit sandpaper not offer similar results?

I tried sandpaper before (400 grit wet dry, 3M brand). For some reason, it did not produce uniform brush lines. I think it is because the abrasive easily wears away with each stroke, affecting the quality of the subsequent brush strokes.

I would try the watchbrandnew kit, using the method I described in my previous how-to's. Never used the kit before, though.

 

Re: Xome good tips here, but also...

Just re-tried the pen with the watch taped down. The finish is far better now. Still not absolutely perfect but acceptable.

Guess I really ought to wait until it really does have some wear and tear marks on it rather than worrying about the minute hairline marks it had on it recently.

I'm still in the honeymoon period with the watch so am looking at it in far too much detail!

 

Re: Xome good tips here, but also...

Just re-tried the pen with the watch taped down. The finish is far better now. Still not absolutely perfect but acceptable.

Guess I really ought to wait until it really does have some wear and tear marks on it rather than worrying about the minute hairline marks it had on it recently.

I'm still in the honeymoon period with the watch so am looking at it in far too much detail!

Forget about it: you can't keep your watch new for ever.

Listen, each day, you and I and everyone of us ages one more day: less hair, more wrinkles, a bit more fat perhaps...... And you don't obsess with it, right? :-d

So why would you obsess about a watch clasp's finish? Watches are made to be worn and enjoyed!

My watch philosophy is simple:

Use it and pamper it (but don't abuse it)
Wear it regularly
Have it serviced in six to eight years
And maybe even buy another one soon!
​

 

Does anyone have any useful tips? for instance how much of the glass tip should I have extended? should it flex and be used it like a brush, or just be slightly exposed so I use the hard circular tip?

On a related question, what do you do when the tip gets "black" from cleaning dirty waches? Should it be washed or "cut" somehow ?

 

I just got one of these (the smaller one) and they work very well for touch ups. Use light pressure and I use a straight edge (plastic ruler) and run the scratch pen along it to keep straight. Cut off 1/8" when done so your ready for the next job

 

So cutting is needed, what did you use ? A box cutter ?

 

I used a nice pair of Fiskar shears. Of course it will dull scissors or shears so a word of warning

Box cutters gives you an uneven cut in the fibers making it difficult to use properly imo.

 

I always use a scotch brite pad for bracelet clasp touch ups. Works just as good and it's much faster. JMHO.

 

I agree on clasps and most bracelets ;-)

But the case and the bond bracelet is a different story...the small pen is handy with the "small stuff"

 

Are there any local stores that sell these Bergeon scratch pens or fiberglass scratch brushes? I can't seem to have any luck.
Thanks

 

Look at hardware and automotive stores; they're also used to prep metal for small touch-up paint jobs. 3M makes one that I got at a local place.

http://bit.ly/4SC9pA

http://bit.ly/4SC9pA

 

Forget the pen, buy a ScotchBrite pad. Sponge (yellow) on one side and green (ScotchBrite) on the other. Used for scrubbing pots and pans, but does a great job on 2254 clasp. Use electrician's tape to protect areas around clasp and brush in one direction. Will look like new in no time!

 

Here's a tutorial for the pen, very simple

http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/manfromomega/Scratch_Pen_Tutorial.jpg

 

Here's a tutorial for the pen, very simple

http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/manfromo...n_Tutorial.jpg

:-!

 

Had missed that message, so there's no need to worry about cutting the tip when it becomes dark/worn like on mine :

 

I use a Bergeon abrasive block which does a great job but a scotchBrite (yellow and green - use green side) will do almost as well.

 

My previous fiberglass pen was worn so I got a replacement one from widgetsupply but it's nylon not fiber so it doesn't work much and the tip goes inside the pen as it is just glued. Any US source for a cheap one that works? I see Bergeon has one but they go for nearly $30...

Would like to try sandflex for larger areas but it seems Home Depot don't have it. Might give ScotchBrite a try too!

EDIT 1 - I see Home Depot have "Sanding Sponges", including an Extra-Fine one by 3M : http://tinyurl.com/4r3gjf8 so that might do the trick.

EDIT 2 - Looks like the Shack has the goods : http://tinyurl.com/4r6byml - Fiberglass pen with replacement tip - only $7

 

I had good luck using the Watchbrandnew.com scratch removal kit on my TAG Heuer Carrera's bracelet, which came from the AD lightly pre-scratched (I think it was in the display case for quite some time), and on my wife's Orient. The Carrera has polished and brushed sections in very close proximity so it took some time and care but it definitely looks a lot better.

 

That kit looks interesting, did you use all 6 abrasives and the rouge or only some of them? That kit seems designed to fix scratches on polished surfaces while the scratch pen would fix scratches on brushed surfaces.

Their comments on the Cape Cod Cloth are interesting because I tried it yesterday on the scratched polished links center links of a used SLT055t I got recently and while it did help with the shine a bit it didn't remove any scratches.

 

It's for both, and the instructions nicely detail how to do it. I think I ended up using two or three of the grades of paper.