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Best Build quality under $1000 Micro and Mainstream

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30K views 143 replies 73 participants last post by  RonaldUlyssesSwanson  
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#1 ·
I'm always a fan of "best under this" and "best under that", but best seems to be a very subjective term, and very often when we watch videos from Baldassarre and other established reviewers, there is always a predisposition to go towards watches that have a traditional value based on heritage. Well, "heritage" is a marketing term, applicable to a luxury goods market, that doesn't provide actual physical & tangible value.

I'm curious as to what your votes are for the best build quality watches, for under or around the $1000 mark. So, tight tolerances, great case finishes, decent workhorse movements (what does in-house give us anyways. really), refinement, smoothness, no rattling on the bracelets of any kind, an overall superb and solid feeling watch.

I would include watches that can be had on the used market for under a grand. Notables that come to mind for me are:

Christopher Ward watches
Traska watches
Monta (here and there under a k to be had)
Ball watches (easily found used under a thousand)
Older gen Oris Aquis etc.

What are some of your notable pics for great build quality watches!
 
#4 ·
Damasko is hands down the winner, with unique and amazing technology that no one else has, and roughly $1k. Nothing comes close.
Well, Archimede comes kinda close.

There are homage brands like CW,.San Martin, or Monta that have great build quality, but have not developed their own design language and identity. The build quality is outstanding - certainly don't have the innovation, design language or in house expertise that Damasko (Sinn, Archimede) have.
 
#9 ·
I honestly wouldn't know since there are too many brands in this price range.

Damasko makes a nice piece but I think the only model that's around $1,000 is the DS30, which does Not feature a fully hardened case, it is only surfaced hardened.

So I guess if I had to blurt out one brand I would say Hamilton.
 
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#30 ·
That's very true, but I really tried to throw in some qualitative and quantitative characteristics such as case finishing, the detail on the dial, the lume perhaps, and certainly very important is the quality feel and construction of the bracelet, how it meets the case, are there any rattling or jangling sounds, etc.
 
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#37 ·
BA11 said:
I am not a big fan of their bracelet but at around a grand(pre-owned) its a pretty robust quality watch.

View attachment 18242720
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The Sinn RS I've had, and though the stamped shell of the clasp could be better, as well as the finishing on the bracelet, I gotta say, the subjective "svelte" feel was pretty robust and would compare favourably on that point with Oris and Ball.

The Ball you posted in your other post...they're just fantastic! And easily found sub $1k. Probably one of the most under-rated brands, period.
 
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#19 ·
Damasko new is around $1000 for the DS30 on a strap. I personally like the case finish on the DS30 over the polished Sinn 104 case, which you definitely CANNOT get new for anywhere close to $1000 (although, you can get a good one pre-owned if you look around). Oris new used to be a great bargain, but their prices keep going up. I might put my money on a last-gen Longines Hydroconquest, which you can get new for under $1000 grey-market. The HQ is a lot of watch at the price point. I like Hamilton, but they are, frankly, a qualitative notch below the other brands I mentioned.
 
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#20 ·
Second the Oris. My BCPD I got used for $1K. Nice bracelet, good finishing, history. I’ve owned the Christopher Ward Sealander and they’re great, although I paid $650 for mine a few years ago and now they’re pushing $1K. And to be honest I found them a little boring. Boring is good sometimes but not always. I could say the same for Traska. I’m thinking of the Commuter line. They all scream Oyster Perpetual.
 
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#22 ·
Certina.

Yes really. For those of us who care about movements, Precidrive and Nivachron add value. Cases and dials are simple, but robust.

Also, I'm seeing a lot of stuff here that's more than $1K.
 
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#25 ·
For under a grand, I really don't think in terms of evident and apparent quality to the observer, that any major brands compete in any particular way with the higher end homages like $300 San Martin's and Octopus. These guys focus on the finish and it shows. No Hamilton Khaki or Tissot Gentleman - like watch I've ever held evidences anywhere near this sort of attention to finishing and tolerance. These brands can certainly do it, but you just don't get it from the Swiss until you reach more like 2,3, 4+ grand. This also makes perfect sense because you wouldn't want your basic entry level stuff to noticeably rival your more aspirational brands.

The other alternative to find a competitor for these guys in terms of in-hand finishing would be to go Casio Oceanus, or maybe Astron-like lines. Trouble is, even these at their best are over $1k, and as much play as something like the Oceanus T200 gets in terms of "finishing", it still isn't as good as the San Martin. There is notable cost cutting still present on that watch particularly where the bracelet is concerned, and of course with the non HAQ quartz movement. Still good value, but I don't think even quite as good as the high end Chinese Ti and steel models.
 
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#38 ·
midshipman01 said:
For under a grand, I really don't think in terms of evident and apparent quality to the observer, that any major brands compete in any particular way with the higher end homages like $300 San Martin's and Octopus. These guys focus on the finish and it shows. No Hamilton Khaki or Tissot Gentleman - like watch I've ever held evidences anywhere near this sort of attention to finishing and tolerance. These brands can certainly do it, but you just don't get it from the Swiss until you reach more like 2,3, 4+ grand. This also makes perfect sense because you wouldn't want your basic entry level stuff to noticeably rival your more aspirational brands.

The other alternative to find a competitor for these guys in terms of in-hand finishing would be to go Casio Oceanus, or maybe Astron-like lines. Trouble is, even these at their best are over $1k, and as much play as something like the Oceanus T200 gets in terms of "finishing", it still isn't as good as the San Martin. There is notable cost cutting still present on that watch particularly where the bracelet is concerned, and of course with the non HAQ quartz movement. Still good value, but I don't think even quite as good as the high end Chinese Ti and steel models.
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I agrees 100percent what you were referring to with 99% of the well off brand don't show built quality. I mean they are all nice and with good polishing. But some how from Hamilton, Citizen, Seiko, Oris, the helve is just not there. I feel like almost all of them felt very hollow. Specially at the bracelet side of things. People are going to hate me when I say this. Seiko and Citizen are amount the worst from my old Sarb to MM300 to my old Seiko/GS. The old Tuna line was good, but haven't handle any newer Tunas releases. Their links felt light and hollow. All their watch heads are nicely polish and Mills to their price point! But the stainless steel formula are still pretty hollow and light to me.

A nice helve of bracelet that I felt was actually good and with some good steel feelings are from older Balls (I have fireman 2) / Omegas / IWC / Rolexes...

For micro brand / homages watches.... The best that I've god from bracelet to watch head are surprisingly from Timesfactor PRS15 and PRS22. These 2 watches felt exceptionally solid at $500 price ranges
 
#28 ·
Surprisingly, I agree with a lot of what I’ve read here.

I had a Ball Engineer Marvelight that blew me away with how solid the build was for less than 1k used.

Also had a Damasko DA46 that was rock solid that I got used under 1k. But the Ball watch surprised me more. I expected Damasko to be solid, I had no idea Ball made such a high quality time piece until I owned one.

I’ve also had a Casio Oceanus, and I agree in terms of finishing and usefulness, but I wouldn’t say the bracelet was of amazing build quality. Wonderfully attractive, light, and comfortable though.

i must really appreciate the good build under 1k category, because I do have my eye on the Traska Freediver as well.
 
#40 ·
“A nice helve of bracelet that I felt was actually good and with some good steel feelings are from older Balls (I have fireman 2) / Omegas / IWC / Rolexes...”

I had to look this word up. Did you mean “heft”?

helve (plural helves)
The handle or haft of a tool or weapon. quotations ▼
A forge hammer lifted by a cam acting on the helve between the fulcrum and the head.
 
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