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Buying my first and only Speedmaster Professional - what to get?

17K views 84 replies 56 participants last post by  PaddyMoran  
#1 · (Edited)
Good morning,

About 10 years ago I decided that at some point in my life I'd own a Speedmaster (which in hindsight of course was the time I should have bought one). Naturally my interest in them stems from the manned space program, which influenced my choice of somewhat related career in aerospace. I do enjoy watches but will readily admit that most luxury watches escape my interest, apart from the Speedmaster. That said, the direction that the watch and pricing is going, which frustrates me in more ways than just affordability, means that I think perhaps now might be my last chance to buy one before they grow outside of my scope.

So the question is what to get. I appreciate that many on these forums might buy, sell, upgrade etc over time but I don't imagine that will be me - it's something to buy and keep, so I'm looking to get it right first time. I've read many guides and articles over the various offerings but find there's nothing better than the experiences of owners and enthusiasts, so I'd be very grateful for your input.

My list of 'requirements' is as follows;

  • Speedmaster Professional.
  • Of moonwatch 'heritage' - so likely hessalite etc. I do appreciate of course that this is always somewhat limited.
  • Will be a daily wearer, so available in good condition for the price and probably a newer variety (perhaps more likely to be in good overall condition inside and out).
  • Will only ever be worn on Nato or leather - I don't wear bracelets.
  • Price up to and including the 'new' 3861 model, but with a stronger preference towards a lower price.

So effectively the question is - if you had the money for the 3861 Speedmaster, and were told that you could only buy/own one Speedmaster to wear for the rest of your life which embodied the history of the watch from a space program perspective and was in great condition - what would you buy?

Sincere thanks for your thoughts.

Edit: I should add that if you're kind enough to reply, could you please be very specific about the variant you see as best - i.e rather than saying 'a used one' I'd be grateful for a specific model reference. I appreciate that for enthusiasts these things seem obvious but for a relative layperson it's like another language.
 
#2 ·
me personally, I went thru the same process. Wound up buying an 1861 manual wind because I felt that embodied the moon era watches more than the new larger thicker automatic version, 3861. However I did find an 1861 edition that came with sapphire instead of hesalite, more to my taste. Everyone has their own jumping off point about what purism regarding the moonwatch means. But for me, manual wind is a must. It's become part of my ritual and I love it.
 
#19 ·
X-33 (older gen 1 or 2). Still used in space missions to this day, lots of useful functions, uncommon (unlike the mechanical speedy that is everywhere) and it's undervalued so can be had for a good price.

I'm waiting for one to arrive atm :)
Thanks Mozo. Whilst I like the X-33, over time I know I'd regret not getting the regular variant. If getting two were an option it'd be a consideration but certainly for now I'd like the classic Speedmaster (which I realise strictly speaking isn't the classic Speedmaster, but you know what I mean).

I went through this whole process last year, debating which version and why.

I settled on the latest 3861 Hesalite version. The slimmer proportions wear on my wrist a little better, I like the modernized, accurate movement, and I'm an absolute sucker for the more substantially pie-panned sub-dials.

It seems like good used examples are turning up for $4000-$4500 lately, and that's not a huge jump from a good condition 1861.
Thanks George. Truth be told if they were all the same price then I'd probably just be getting the 3861 hesalite, but the fact it's perhaps 25% more expensive than a good condition late model 1861 gives me pause for thought. I do have big wrists but actually prefer a smaller case, so the 3861 would probably be a preference in case dimensions alone.

Hesalite with a Sapphire display back, I mean you must see that movement after all.
Thanks BigClive. I would love to see the movement, but over time I think I'd be irritated that I steered away from the 'original.' I do realise of course that various elements of more recent moonwatches aren't original per se, but it seems like a big deviation to me.

IMO...get the 3861 no matter what. METAS certified, antimagnetic, accurate and shockproof. It WILL perform better as long as the movement doesn't have the bushing issue (mine, Nov 21 purchase, does not have the problem).
Thanks ATXWatch. Does the warranty on these watches transfer, or will Omega willingly fix the issue as if it were a recall? I understand there have been a few problems, but it's difficult to understand how widespread they are, and how simple/costly it is to get fixed.

Asuming you dont want the 3861, I'd get the last 1861 speedy, which I believe would have the reference number 311.30.............. and it'd come with a big box with all the accessories that goes with the watch. Strap, medallion, loupe etc.

But if you are asking which vintage reference to buy, and would like a refresher on the past Speedy reference, Fratello had written this buyers guide that I refer to often. Happy to chat further if you are looking to go the vintage route.

If you have no intention on wearing it on bracelet, thr First Omega in Space (FOIS) would be a good choice as well. Pay attention to the case shape, the lack of case bumper on the side, and how it's lugs are different to the standard Speedy Pro.

Here's one of mine, a 90s 145.022. I have a bracelet for it, but like you I prefer it on straps and wears it exclusively that way.
Thanks Cheu, lots of good information, and those are nice watches you have. I had looked quite extensively at the FOIS, but similar to my thoughts above I think I would over time question why I got a numbered variant over the moon watch line. It's silly of course, the 3861 is no more a moon watch than the FOIS really.

As for vintage models, I'm not averse to them but feel like I'm setting myself up for a fail. The 145.022 you show for example can be found for around £4500 here in reasonable condition, so throw in a service which on a 22 year old watch might not be a complete formality, and I'm paying more than I would for a brand new 3861. Part of my frustration in the process is the price of used examples - which were obviously in the past a brilliant value proposition. Perhaps it's only fair that prices have risen commensurate with the popularity of the watch, but I do find it frustrating.
 
#5 ·
I went through this whole process last year, debating which version and why.

I settled on the latest 3861 Hesalite version. The slimmer proportions wear on my wrist a little better, I like the modernized, accurate movement, and I'm an absolute sucker for the more substantially pie-panned sub-dials.

It seems like good used examples are turning up for $4000-$4500 lately, and that's not a huge jump from a good condition 1861.
 
#8 ·
I would vote for 1861. I had an 861 and I’m pretty sure that was the last movement that was actually certified by nasa (someone will correct me if I’m wrong lol). The 1861 calibre is the closest to that. Obviously go with hesalite crystal and closed case back for authenticity. Otherwise as suggested the gen 2 X33 is still current nasa issue and can be had for a good price. Mine is away being serviced at the moment prior to moving it on. Good luck in your search. Do plenty of reading - there are tons of articles out there to absorb.

Edit: Servicing an older manual wind speedy is pretty straightforward for most watchmakers whereas the X33 must be sent back to Swatch for service. Probably the same for the new models. That’s worth consideration if you are planning on keeping the watch for many years.
 
#9 ·
If you are considering going the X-33 route as some others have suggested, they are dirt cheap. There's currently a 1st gen model listed here on WUS for $1450, and a 2nd gens regularly being listed for $2k or so.

Third generation, current model X-33s are a bit harder to come by. They're also not NASA certified, but they are certified and used by the European Space Agency aboard the International Space Station. There's currently a third gen solar impulse variant (blue and green accent) listed here on WUS for $4175, and another recently sold for $3500.

Can you tell I've been thinking about getting one?
 
#17 · (Edited)
#12 ·
If this is going to be your only speedmaster, My advice would be to get a 3861.

Visually it’s 100% the classic moonwatch, with a few nice touches like the stepped dial and dot over 90. Hesalite vs sapphire is down to your personal preference.

Movement wise, it could be argued that it’s not NASA certified but in reality astronauts wear a variety of watches other than speedmasters.
What you will get with the 3861 is a new movement under warranty, great accuracy and an also very good looking movement
(Which if you go for the sapphire you’ll also get the display case-back and be able to see it).

It may not have the history of an 861 but if you only intend to own 1 speedy, you cant go wrong with the 3861.

I can’t comment on the bracelet as I bought mine with a strap.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Asuming you dont want the 3861, I'd get the last 1861 speedy, which I believe would have the reference number 311.30.............. and it'd come with a big box with all the accessories that goes with the watch. Strap, medallion, loupe etc.


But if you are asking which vintage reference to buy, and would like a refresher on the past Speedy reference, Fratello had written this buyers guide that I refer to often. Happy to chat further if you are looking to go the vintage route.


If you have no intention on wearing it on bracelet, thr First Omega in Space (FOIS) would be a good choice as well. Pay attention to the case shape, the lack of case bumper on the side, and how it's lugs are different to the standard Speedy Pro.

Here's one of mine, a 90s 145.022. I have a bracelet for it, but like you I prefer it on straps and wears it exclusively that way.
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#18 ·
Good morning and welcome, quality first post for sure!

Have you thought about getting a vintage one and having it serviced form a reputable shop? Mine is from early 1970, a 145.022, and I love the history behind it; that is was made at a time when the Apollo program was in full swing and making history. Just my thoughts on the matter.

Taking a leaf out of @cheu_f50 's book:

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#24 ·
Since this will be your one ‘nice’ watch, and since you intend to keep it, and as you seem to want to avoid any hassle, I would recommend keeping it simple and going for a new 3861 hesalite. You’ll get a fantastic METAS- certified hand wound movement, a stepped dial and more elegant dimensions than the 1861. You’ll also get Omega’s 5 year warranty and any mechanical issue that could arise would be dealt with by the company at no cost to you. I own a 145.022, which offers the charm of a tritium dial and the 861 movement, but I’ve also just spent $900 servicing it so unless you can get a great price on one or get one that has been recently serviced, and in either case from a reputable dealer, I would just take the easy way and go for the 3861. Oh and definitely go for hesalite. The warmth and the distortions that it creates are priceless.
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#26 ·
Buy what you like, there is no perfect time piece, just the one that gives you joy at the moment. I picked up the Speedmaster ‘57 first about a month ago, it was so lovely that it motivated me to buy the Moonwatch (Sapphire Sandwich) last week. The one led to the other, and I love them both and fortunate to have them. At the end of the day, buy the one(s) that resonate with you most. (reference numbers below as well).

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#27 ·
My immediate initial thought was looking at vintage after reading your post, but if that's not the direction you want to go my answer would be the new 3861 hesalite. I'm a huge fan of the step dial and updated bracelet. Good luck on your hunt and let us know what you decide.
 
#29 ·
It's not not the direction I want to go, but in reality it's going to cost as much, if not more than a new model with small discount, and that's assuming I don't accidentally get a lemon.

New 3861 sapphire sandwich. You HAVE to be able to see that movement!
As nice as the movement is, I do think I prefer the look of the hesalite, without the white ring.
 
#30 ·
For me this is really easy. I love a vintage aesthetic, but I dislike reissues: it has to be the real thing for me. The sweet spot, then, is an early to mid nineties 145.022 with tritium lume. The tritium ages beautifully, creating that perfect vintage Moonwatch aesthetic. You get the best of the old - a nearly identical watch as to what actually went to the moon - but that's not so old and valuable that you're afraid to wear it.
Yes, you may need to get it serviced. No big deal.
 
#34 ·
If you want to buy new, you could do what I did a few years ago. Visited the Omega boutique on Bond Street in London and asked to look at 4 variations. I then asked the sales assistant to leave me alone for 30 minutes which she did.

Out went the two bracelet options as I wasn't a fan and then it was down to hesalite v sapphire. I went for Sapphire as I didn't care for the risk of easy scratches even though they can be polished out. But each to their own.

My nephew was right when he said that once the watch was home, you quickly forget about the other options.

One last thing, beware of the size of the box they come in, it's a full gym workout carrying it home.