Only if the gasket is not reinstalled properly or damaged. I change my own batteries and am very careful to preserve the gasket.
AFAIK, Casio does not change batteries for customers, though some dealers might.

Choosing a solar charged model G solves this issue for decades, in my experience. They never need to be opened and some of my solars are 22 years old on original cells running perfectly at full charge, given enough Sun. Well worth the extra initial cost.

GWG-1000

 

Is there any special tools that you use. I've seen some custom watch building YouTubers use something to pick up their gaskets. Do you use that. I want to start buying non solar g's since those are the ones usually with the collabs I like and want.

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I suppose it depends on the condition of the gasket and if any deterioration has occurred? :think:
Ideally, a new gasket should be used & some silicone gasket lubricant applied.
Another thing that may be worth considering, is the condition of the tiny screws and the holes (on a plastic case) that they fit into.
I have previously seen, in plastic cases, that the screw holes can become enlarged and damaged (possibly due to over tightening of the screws) thus compromising the water resistance of the case.

 

I'd be more concerned with the screw holes than the water-resistance. After 2 or 3 times the resin case won't hold the screws as tight as before.

 

I have read about the GWG which is solar powered, my only concern is that its bigger than the Gg-B100. I want it as small as possible so that the watch doesnt get in the way when working out.

Anyone by any chance happen to own both who can tell me if there is a large size difference?

 

Anyone by any chance happen to own both who can tell me if there is a large size difference?

I only own the GWG 1000 and when I first got it, I found it to be overwhelmingly huge. But I liked it so much that I quickly got used to it in about 2 weeks. I still think it is big, but I no longer notice wearing it. It is almost never in the way, at least not much more than any regular watch would be. So I can only recommend it. Yes, this is one watch that may feel big, but it is a good feeling to feel it's presence.

 

IMO Don't worry about water resistance after removal and replacement of a watch case back as long as you do a few things properly. In my collection I have 2 types of case backs: screw down (screw down case back) and screwed down (4 corner screws on a plate), both can be done easily with some notes of caution. I elaborated below

Wear gloves if possible

For a screw down case back:
- Remove/ unscrew case back
- Before touching anything take mental note or picture of proper position/ orientation of gasket fore re-installation
- clean all the gunk on edges - i do this with q tip and isopropyl alcohol
- inspect gasket
- clean gasket
- replace gasket if kinked, broken, or dry rotted or messed up for any reason
- lube gasket with based silicone grease (silicone will seep into the gasket medium over time and hydrate/ plump it up and give it longevity)
- The silicone grease will also help the gasket stick/ stay in place when you are doing the next steps
- Place gasket into proper position (be very careful to put in proper position refer to you picture if you need to)
- depending on design it might be easier to place on case back or screw down lid (ex for my seiko I place it on the lid, for my omega I set it in the case because it has a gasket groove (very nice))
- Carefully screw the case back in place with your fingers making sure to NOT CROSS thread the threads.
- I like to go counter clockwise up to one turn to assure I won't be cross threading (if you don't know what I am talking about practice on a jar from the fridge)
- Rotate clockwise to screw it down (again, with your hands, it should go on easily)
- if possible Inspect the gasket while screwing the back down to makes sure it has not been dislodged or gotten out of position
- sometimes I do a trial run or 2 to make sure the gasket is not coming out of place
- once it is hand tightened and you are confident all is in the correct position use the case back tool to crank it down (do not crank on a trial run or if you are not sure you will split/kink/damage the gasket)
- now repeat all the steps above and replace the battery since we forgot to do that

For a screwed down case back with 4 screws:
- Remove/ unscrew 4 screws and remove case back
- Before touching anything take mental note or picture of proper position/ orientation of gasket fore re-installation
- clean all the gunk on edges - i do this with q tip and isopropyl alcohol
- inspect gasket
- clean gasket
- replace gasket if kinked, broken, or dry rotted or messed up for any reason
- lube gasket with based silicone grease (silicone will seep into the gasket medium over time and hydrate/ plump it up and give it longevity)
- The silicone grease will also help the gasket stick/ stay in place when you are doing the next steps
- Place gasket into proper position (be very careful to put in proper position refer to you picture if you need to)
- Every plate type back I have worked with has a gasket groove on the case, so I place the gasket in the groove
- Carefully place the case back plate in place
- sometimes I do a trial placement and take off to see if position was correct
- I keep a constant pressure on the plate to making sure it doesn't shift while I replace the screws.
- I put once screw in 1/2 way down (in place but not tightened)
- I put the diagonal (opposite corner) screw in 1/2 way down
- Then I do the other 2 1/2 way down (in place but not tightened)
- Still holding pressure on the case plate during all of this
- Then I tighten each a little bit in a star pattern (opposite corners)
- NO CRANKING DOWN HERE ESPECIALLY IF IT IS A PLASTIC/ RESIN CASE YOU WILL STIP THE PLASTIC and there is not fixing or turning back!!!
- Hard to describe how tight to make each screw - THIS IS THE HARDEST part IMO (how tight to make it)
- I use my finger tips of index and thumb on the screw driver (noting else) and I go until the resistance it took to make progress stops progress, this it is only a quarter turn or less. as you do the other corners you maybe able to get another 1/2 turn max. DON'T over do it. I suggest practicing on a cheap digital watch
- now repeat all the steps above and replace the battery since we forgot to do that

I tried to be as detailed as I could to help

I change all my watch batteries myself and yet to have a rear gasket leak. From my experience the rear gasket is not the weakest link. The pushers and crown are by far the weakest link for water resistance. Those are not static as the case back is and at the pusher and crown there is far more room for error. IMO best crown design is Rolex. You should also lube those gaskets (crown and pushers) but that is a different story.

WR is a big deal to me, after going down the rabbit hole my 2 favorite watches:

Rolex OP for the dual lock screw down crown WR design awesome (Submariner triple lock design even better)

and

G - shock 5610 (any g-shock at least equal if not better than this (better ex: frogman)) - because of 200m WR and EACH pusher has DUAL (yes 2) gaskets AWESOME (IMO this is the weakest link, so I like watches with least amount of pushers). on amazon you never see one bad review on any G shock regarding water reosis failure but timex almost all the time (this has also been my personal experience)

 

@Surly Troll, to my best knowledge, the 5610 series despite being among the G-Shock line has uniquely a single gasket on it's pushers, so NO dual gaskets that otherwise most if not all other G-Shocks do have.

Also as far as leaks go, I also see some G-Shocks glued crystal area as a potential candidate for leaks. After all glues or sealants have a limited life span. At least the back is screwed and not glued.

 

@Surly Troll, to my best knowledge, the 5610 series despite being among the G-Shock line has uniquely a single gasket on it's pushers, so NO dual gaskets that otherwise most if not all other G-Shocks do have.

I was unsure too so I went down that rabbit hole too..... the GWM-5610 does have dual gaskets on the pushers

https://www.watchuseek.com/f17/gwf-d1000-froggy-mud-resistant-4901607-3.html

https://www.watchuseek.com/f17/all-...buttons-pushers-have-dual-two-o-rings-gaskets-including-gwm-5610-a-5017153.html

 

wow, you don't get out AT ALL during this LOCK-DOWN time? because if you do, your chance of avoiding the ccp-virus just drip down from 100 percent

 

no it wont mess with WR and you dont need to pressure test, send it away or have a jeweler work on it

first few changes you probably wont need anything if you take a little care not to pinch the ring or get any dirt in from the sides. the factory grease lasts ages and the o ring usually sticks in place to the inside of the backplate which makes centering it pretty easy.

 

In theory no, as long as ALL gaskets are in good condition, and the caseback one sits correctly when putting everything back together. I have been doing DIY battery change for a looooooong time and never have one failed water proofness tested at maybe 6-8 feet (button of the pool).

having said that, if you dive with the watch (i.e. your life depends on it), always have it pressure tested after caseback has been opened.

 

Check the gasket and if it’s undamaged it will go again. I’ve got one off those little sponge things impregnated with silicone grease that I find a big help. When putting the back on make sure not to nip or generally mess up the gasket.

 

My latest G-shock is a solar - I completely messed up one of my old Casios by changing batteries over the years. I could never get the darn gasket to seat properly while getting the caseback re-installed with those tiny screws. Anyway, I didn't even have it underwater, just spent some time hiking in a driving rain, was completely shot when I got home. Opened it up and tried to dry everything out to no avail.

 

wait, you knew it wasnt seated properly but you went and closed it up anyway??
weird that you had so much trouble seating the o ring, the little groove makes it so you could prob do it with your eyes closed...eventually lol

 

its most likely answered a lot, i will write too: simply look that the seal ring is ok, not brittle nor deformed, close the caseback as its supposed to be with the screws. done.

if unsure, close all after battery change. give it a wash, use it in mud, dirt, etc. then open it again and take a look, if the dirt came over that seal ring are.

 

For a g shock micro screwdriver set and tweezers if you want

Phillips for case back and flat as a gentle pry tool for case back and battery retention clip

Sometimes you may need to make a jumper from a paper clip to reset the watch after fresh battery installation

I always end up using tooth picks and q tips also

 

Thanks for all the input guys, I ended up buying the GG-B100 and its awesome and the perfect size.

Now Im worried that I will waste the battery lol. Does the barometer and temperature sensors use up alot of battery? If I remove them from the display using the app will the watch conserve more battery? Im thinking of only enabling these when i really need them. 90% of the time its sunny where I live and the temperature is always the same.

 

Thanks for all the input guys, I ended up buying the GG-B100 and its awesome and the perfect size.

Now Im worried that I will waste the battery lol. Does the barometer and temperature sensors use up alot of battery? If I remove them from the display using the app will the watch conserve more battery? Im thinking of only enabling these when i really need them. 90% of the time its sunny where I live and the temperature is always the same.

'Yes' to all your questions - unfortunately.