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Eterna – how dumb can someone possibly be?

4K views 34 replies 25 participants last post by  Moonshine Runner  
#1 ·
Dear friends of the cultivated madness,

some of us may still remember the manufacturer of ebauches that was founded in 1856 by the physician Josef Girard and the teacher Urs Schild as “Girard & Schild” in Grenchen, and the companies that emerged from it, Eterna SA and ETA SA.
Eterna is – or should we say was – one of the most innovative watchmakers in Switzerland. For example, the company applied for a patent for the first wristwatch alarm as early as 1908, and in 1914 it was presented to the world for the first time at the Swiss National Exhibition. Eterna is also the inventor of the ball-bearing rotor, which increased the winding capacity of the automatic caliber and is now indispensable for every manufacturer of automatic watch movements. This rotor bearing was equipped with five balls and these five balls have formed the company logo of Eterna SA since 1948.

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Eterna worked with the Italian automobile designer Pininfarina and with Porsche Design, and developed its own movements even after ETA SA was sold to the Swatch Group, which unfortunately did not include Eterna.
Until 2011, things may not have gone particularly well with Eterna, but overall they were not too bad. But then Ferdinand Alexander Porsche, who had taken over Eterna in 1995 with his F.A.P. Beteiligungsgruppe GmbH, withdrew and sold Eterna SA to Citychamp Watch & Jewellery Group Ltd, which belongs to China Haidian Holding in Kowloon, Hong Kong.
Under Chinese management, the traditional Swiss watchmaker is steadily declining.

But it is not only the Chinese, who are said to have taken a lot of money out of the company and invested nothing in return, who are driving the traditional manufacturer to the wall. The management in Grenchen also seems to have no idea what they are doing.

The Eterna SA operates a website at eterna.com where interested potential customers can view the current portfolio and find out about the technical data of the watches. Prices are not mentioned, but that is not a problem, because potential buyers can find out about these from the authorized dealers listed under the “Store Locator” menu.
But wait! Can the customer really do that?
No, he can't! The Store Locator only shows the Service Centers to which the customer can send a purchased watch for repair or servicing. These Service Centers do NOT sell watches!

But maybe Eterna SA offers an online shop where potential buyers can get rid of their money and purchase one of the (really and without sarcasm) excellently crafted watches?
... and yes, Eterna SA does have such an online shop, but you won't find it because there is NO link to it on the homepage. If you happen to come across the address shop.eterna.com at some point, you are in for a real surprise! Eterna actually offers not only 23 watch models in 3 model series, but 57 men's models and 7 women's models, for a total of 64 different watches, some of which feature the ultra-modern in-house caliber EMC 39!

With such an organizational masterpiece, it's no wonder that forums don't show new watches from Eterna – who knows, for example, that the Royal KonTiki GMT is available again and that the KonTiki Diver 200M is available in more than only two variants?

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I think the staff at Eterna SA should give the management a good kick in the pants so that the brand is noticed again – it certainly deserves it.
 
#6 ·
So I remember seeing eterna watchescfor the first time in the mid to late 90s at the forum shops in las vegas cesars palace. They had kontiki and super kontiki cosc chronnometers for sale. All colors. The quality was so high that their retail price was at 3k in 97 to 98.
Here is mine.
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#8 ·
But it is not only the Chinese, who are said to have taken a lot of money out of the company and invested nothing in return, who are driving the traditional manufacturer to the wall. The management in Grenchen also seems to have no idea what they are doing.
This does seem to be an unfortunate recurring theme almost every time a company previously run by a passionate founder, gets taken over by private equity.

FWIW I recently saw Eterna display cases in a few airports, so that's certainly an improvement. When I acquired mine (around the time of the Citychamp takeover), it was with the understanding that it was effectively a zombie brand but the watch, being based on a ETA 2893, would still be serviceable by other watchmakers. It would be nice to have support for what I understand to be more specialist parts of the watch, like the gaskets and the bezel etc. It is encouraging to see some signs of life.

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#10 ·
Prices are not mentioned, but that is not a problem, because potential buyers can find out about these from the authorized dealers listed under the “Store Locator” menu.
But wait! Can the customer really do that?
No, he can't! The Store Locator only shows the Service Centers to which the customer can send a purchased watch for repair or servicing. These Service Centers do NOT sell watches!
Indeed, like @ImaTOOL already said, the Store Locator works just fine. All four top row buttons on their landing page are links to subsequent pages. You may choose to move to the menu below instead, but you don't have to..

Apart from that, I agree with you. It's a shame that Eterna isn't more visible. They would truly deserve it.
 
#11 ·
I currently have two Eterna watches in my collection – which makes up a sixth of my watches. ;)
The KonTiki Diver 1000M, created under the aegis of Porsche, is a very unusual watch with a polarizing design that is certainly not for every days use.
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The KonTiki Diver 200M is much more mainstream, even if the dimensions (ø 44 mm, ↔︎ 52 mm) are initially off-putting. The watch sits very comfortably on the wrist thanks to the drawn-down lugs and appears much smaller on the arm. It is also surprisingly flat, at just 12.2 mm thick. I would see the quality of the watch's workmanship as being on a par with the Breitling Colt / Avenger, perhaps not in terms of the anti-reflective coating, but definitely in terms of the case. However, there is one significant difference: the Eterna costs just a third of the Breitling.
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Until a few years ago, I also had an Eterna Matic 1856 KonTiki Professional Diver Chronometer, which came onto the market in the 1990s. Powered by an ETA 2892-A2, the watch is the thinnest automatic diver's watch ever made with an external rotating bezel, at just 8 mm thick.
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I think that word has spread a little that I have a greater fondness for IWC watches than for those of other manufacturers. But I think that if someone is undecided, then the watches from Eterna would definitely be worth a recommendation.
 
#15 ·
I like their button-down dress shirts. Maybe the only brand that actually fits me properly.
Since the quality of my opinion deteriorated sharply during the bankruptcy, I now prefer Olymp.

Eterna is going nowhere for decades now. Just a sad shadow of what it could be. Nobody knows or cares how to properly revive the brand. It's a shame, but it is what it is.
Yes, it's a shame. But I think that management is mainly to blame for the fact that Eterna is where it is right now. With someone like Georges Kern – whatever you may think of him – or Guillaume Laitet at the helm, Eterna would be on everyone's lips. Especially since everything needed for success is there: excellent quality, an outstanding heritage and an exciting history that could be used for very effective advertising, and with Maison Eterna (formerly Eterna Movement Company), they also have an in-house movement manufacturer.
… and then there is the caliber 39! Thanks to the modularity of this movement 88 variants are available, from simple hand-wound movements to GMT, moon phase and triple date chronograph, to flyback chronograph with GMT.

But maybe it would be enough if the CEO wasn't replaced every 14 days. The leadership position changed six times between 2011 and 2019, for example.
 
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#20 ·
You didn't look very hard. Prices and online ordering directly from Eterna.

The thing is that, at least from a cursory glance, this store isn't readily linked to on the Eterna website. Seems odd to me. I would want potential customers to know they can order directly.
 
#23 ·
While I love my Eterna Super Kontiki 1973 re-release / limited edition, my opinion is their designs are all about 2mm too large.

Even the Kontiki auto (the model without a turning bezel) wears rather large at 42mm. It would've been perfect at 40mm.

I also think the "4 hands" model would have been great as a GMT. I've never had much use for a pointer date function, but a GMT that could dance the line between "sporty" and "dress" would have been very attractive.
 
#28 ·

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#31 · (Edited)
I think Eterna has been dead or at most running on fumes for a while. I doubt they're even producing any new watches - probably just selling remaining inventory. I think Anonimo SA may be in the same boat. Hopefully I'm wrong on both!

I had the Royal KonTiki GMT 5+ years back. Super cool watch. The crown had the Eterna logo under what seemed like crystal. I bought it for around $1k gray market if I remember correctly and it came on a rubber strap. I contacted Eterna about buying the bracelet for it and they wanted about the same amount for just the bracelet. Ended up selling it but I still keep an eye out for one on bracelet, though I'm leaning towards smaller watches lately and probably wouldn't do the PVD version.

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#33 ·
Before I started this thread on Tuesday, I was looking for information about the Royal KonTiki Flyback Chronograph GMT, which was only available for a very short time and was discontinued several years ago.
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While doing research, I came across two offers on C24 that showed this watch in versions that never existed. This made me curious, and so I found out that Eterna had reissued the watch in 2023 as a limited edition with two dial colors.
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However, no one found out about this new edition, because the watches never appeared on the website and there was not a word about them in the various forums…
 
#34 ·
Honestly, the newer models are very not my jam. If I'm shopping Eterna, I'm shopping discontinued, back catalog, and vintage. I.e. I'd love to get my hands on a next-to-last generation Madison.

Not to start an "homage thread" here, but since it was mentioned that Eterna was the original inventor of the ball-bearing oscillating automatic weight (aka "rotor)... It bears mentioning that quite a few of the watches, which others claim are being unethically copied via "stolen" IP in the form of design, are using - not licensing, paying royalties for use, or even acknowledging - IP in their movements which was invented by and formerly belonged to Eterna.
 
#35 ·
I'd love to get my hands on a next-to-last generation Madison.
Yeah, a wonderful watch.
The Madison Eight-Days Spherodrive is beautiful and, with the caliber 3510, has a form movement, so that it does not have to be “the round must go into the rectangular” as in soccer. ;)
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