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Making an acrylic watch 'crystal' from scratch

12K views 24 replies 5 participants last post by  The Guvnah  
#1 · (Edited)
Reached into the dressing gown pocket for my current 'beater' and yowch!... what the... aw nuts!



God knows how that happened? OK it's a bit of junk really (honestly it really is horologically awful) and I only bought the mag to which it was taped to try out something this size before committing to a real one; but it wears well and those big indices are welcome to ever aging eyes. So I resolved to fix it up by sourcing a pocket watch glass or such like to replace the plain flat (theatrical 'sugar' glass) original fitment. The recess is 42.2mm diameter in which sits a PTFE sleeve to recieve the crystal which reduces the inner diameter to around 41.2mm. The nearest crystal I could trawl up on the Bay was 41,5 which I reckoned would be a nice press fit but more fannying about and delay would ensue and in the back of my mind I figured I might still have to make up some kind of cup chuck or mandrel should the replacement's diameter need shaving down. ...LIGHTBULB!... If I'm going to have to fire the lathe up then why not make one?

Every catastrophe holds the seeds of opportunity and in this instance it came in the form of a couple of chunks of 8mm thick acrylic printing blocks kindly proffered by the mem'sahib Mrs. Guvnah from her card-making kit. Nice one sweetheart! A plan and sequence duly took shape.

A half hour with a piercing saw delivered up a couple of blanks of 44m nominal diameter and centre punched ready to be stuck (double sided tape) to a circle of sacrificial flooring tile material which was then in turn centred onto the lathe's faceplate using a conical centre in the tailstock locating in the block's centre punch mark. (double sided tape = great stuff).

Not having a radiusing attachment of sufficient (or indeed any) size my plan of doming the acrylic wasnt really feasible so I thought I'd take a different tack and experiment around a shallow truncated cone section using the cross slide set over to about 10-15 degrees. There was nothing CADded up (which is what I usually do), I just set it up by eye and nudged it a bit as the cut proceeded to make the cone and then faced it off to produce a raised flat top about 20mm in diameter. Here it is fresh off the lathe.



The inner face is going to be left flat in this case but I shall be having a crack at dishing out the inside on Mk2 when I've put together a radiussing jig.
The lathe gives an pretty smooth finish with fresh bits which I found was greatly improved on the final skimming and spring cuts by holding a small paintbrush lightly charged with white spirit against the acrylic and tracking the cut with it both ways, in and back out.
From thereon it's a matter of taking it through various grades of wet lapping starting at 800 grade and working through 1200, 1500 and finally 2000 grit wet 'n dry papers.
Then it's onto the Dremelling with one of those little micro-mops and good old Solvol Autosol. This was used neat and liberally at first...



...and then using ever increasing drips of white spirit to thin it and heighten the polish and which also keep it all cool. This gave a pretty good clarity to the acrylic but no matter how judicious I was I kept getting stubborn smears where it had momentarily dried out under the mop. At this stage it also showed up the flaws and minute dinks that couldn't be seen through the lapping stage...



...so it's back to the Autosol routine until they're removed. There was also an OEM centre line laser etched into one side of the printing block which was particularly persistant! Bit of a brain-fart there; I should have set it up in the lathe the other way round and it would have been faced off in 3 seconds flat rather than half an hour.

However I finally got it to the clear, dint free but slightly smeared state and my patience was beginning to wane, I wanted a quick Saturday afternoon fix here. Time to raid the bathroom for mystical polishing unguents...



In this case it's "Pearl Drops" (I think it'll be similarly named worlwide) and I suppose the smoker's dry powder type toothpaste (Eucryl?) would do the same if not a better job. This was hand rubbed not Dremelled and did a fantastic job of giving a bit of a 'glint' to the acrylic. I'm happy enough with it for its intended end use.

I decided to do away with the PTFE sleeve as it threw a nasty white perimeter around the dial which seemed inconguous and dare I say it 'not contemporary' with the old flieger style of the watch it's pretending to be. the 'glass' was turned to be sliding fit in the recess and to be fixed in with a carefully applied bead of silicone based adhesive to allow for stress free swapping out of the several iterations I intend to try out. (gonna have a little play)

Here it is in situ...



Oof! (sucks air through clenched teeth) ..it needs a radius I think. I knew I should have done it when I had the chance.



Oh crikey that's a bit erm... what's the word I'm looking for here? Odd? Amusing? Obtrusive? Butch? Unfinished? Industrial (I like), Agricultural? Fugly? From the right angle though it looks great



For a first attempt I'm mightily chuffed and it's put an otherwise dead junker back into rotation. My laddo's can now play 'tents' with my dressing gown all they like and I know they won't crack this behemouth of a crystal. In fact you could pound it with a 3lb adjusting hammer and the case back would give out first I'm certain.

I do like that truncated conical section and might work on that idea. I'm also thinking that some sort of turned bronze/ally bumper ring might enhance the design and prevent the edge chipping that would otherwise and inevitably result from frequent wear. I've been toying with a chunky "construction site" style watch for a few years and have a few blanks bored out in anticipation.This bad lad looks like it wants to be the test bed for that project. Wonder if I can machine some sort of light guide/edge illumination into it? God knows there enough room for modifications inside that mahoosive case that comically swamps the miniscule and ambitiously over-stretched and under-specced movement!

Critique, opinions, ideas and advice welcome as ever

The Guv.
 
#2 ·
Of course, you could have bought an acrylic crystal for the watch for around 4 UKP, but that would have spoiled your fun. so my advice is, why stop now? Go ahead an make your WHOLE watch case out of acrylic and move your movement into it. For that matter, make your dial out of acrylic too and you will have the perfect see through watch.

Back during the hippy days in the 1970s, these were popular and companies like the truly horrid but long remembered Sheffield use to make them with BFG pin levers. Some of these watches are still around. Acrylic is a pretty durable material for a watch case and will hold up surprisingly well.

If you want to make a true rough, tough case, albeit non transparent, you can make the case out o Delrin. This is a plastic which I think was invented for machining and is really tough and durable. I've seen watches with black cases made out of it and they make the hearts of those who like military watches go pitter pater.

so, go for it!
 
#3 · (Edited)
Of course, you could have bought an acrylic crystal for the watch for around 4 UKP, but that would have spoiled your fun.
Well exactly, there are many worse ways of spending a Saturday afternoon. :-!

...so my advice is, why stop now? Go ahead an make your WHOLE watch case out of acrylic and move your movement into it. For that matter, make your dial out of acrylic too and you will have the perfect see through watch.
Think I can do better than the movement in this thing. Got a Seiko 6309 which was bought with that in mind but it's too nice to be breaking up for a donor. Plenty of suitable/desirable movements around needing nowt more than a service.

Back during the hippy days in the 1970s, these were popular and companies like the truly horrid but long remembered Sheffield use to make them with BFG pin levers. Some of these watches are still around. Acrylic is a pretty durable material for a watch case and will hold up surprisingly well.
I've seen 'em, and even been tempted to go for a few of the more outlandish ones out of curiosity. In fact I'm looking at the Spaceman Audacieuse and its derivatives and clones by Omax and others at this very moment.

If you want to make a true rough, tough case, albeit non transparent, you can make the case out o Delrin. This is a plastic which I think was invented for machining and is really tough and durable.
I do use it and it does machine beautifully, in fact I've got a slab of it under the bench now you mention it, again purchased for prototyping this construction site beater prior to transferring it to raw un-anodized ally...

I've seen watches with black cases made out of it and they make the hearts of those who like military watches go pitter pater.
...and it's jet black! ;-) I like where you're going with that. Non-reflactive, totally non-magnetic etc.

so, go for it!
I think this is the route I'm going to take with this particular watch. It was bought with this end specifically in mind. Over the months, like King Harold's axe, it'll get re-dialled, re-sized, re-glazed and re-cased with a better movement (most likely a decent quartz jobby) and probably on a self built strap with a ratcheting clasp if I can figure one out or failing that a push button release 'conventional' buckle for which I've already started doing the CADs. If my old Zyto lathe can turn this out it'll get a well deserved pat on the chuck.
 
#8 ·
Thanks Blanchy; well I googled for days trying to find instructables and such like concerning the making of an acrylic/lexan watch crystal but it just wasn't there to find. In those circumstances I try to make good the deficiency for the benefit of others who might like to have a crack at it. I do try to write this stuff up in an intelliglible and readable way and endeavour to remember to snap some decent pics along the way. Should have got some of the lathe doing its work and the implausible amount of swarf such a small block of acrylic produces!

As for what's next, I definitely want to address the total lack of lume on the dial but in a completely different way than lumed paint. I plan to turn up a thin ring of frosted acrylic and set it behind the dial. I'll inset a hyper-bright 2 or 3mm LED into the ring such that its frosted upper surface will glow as it catches the internally reflected light and diffuses it outward. Then I can spot drill 0.5mm holes through the dial at the minute marks or maybe mill out sectors at 3,6,9 and 12 o'clock. (most likely a combination of both) This will allow the LED light from the illuminated acrylic ring to shine through when the LED is activated (switching arrangement T.B.C.)
 
#7 ·
I 'bodged' together a radius turning rig for a job at work:
Improvisation of the Day...

Might give you some inspiration.

Dave
Thanks for that D. Not sure if the tool post on a Zyto would be rigid enough to try that trick though. You're turning a concave rad and I need to turn a convex one of circa 6"diameter. Since the fulcrum of the bit's arc has to be in front of the bit this puts it right under the chuck and like yours the clearance is tight which limits the size of stock the tool could be made from and therefore its rigidity.

That said I'm not turning a full ball or even a hemisphere, just maybe 30 degrees of arc if that. Also this is only acrylic, it's not like I'm turning chunks of cast here. It's about time I pulled my finger out on this rad cutting jig.

"...except we had a 2uM calibrated carbide one in the drawer..."
lol, hey don't we all, I'm tripping over the sodding things! :-d
 
#10 · (Edited)
I really like the idea if adding an led ring instead of lume.

I was thinking about trying to add weight to my one so maybe replacing the crystal could be an option
For the record I've just weighed mine as is with the OEM strap on and it comes in at bang on 2oz or 56.6 grammes. I've no idea what the weight was before but it definitely feels more substantial although still a bit 'lightweight' compared to my usual rotation of divers. Got any scales Blanchy? For comparison my Seiko 6309 diver on the standard strap weighs in at 98g, an old school Aqualand is around 97g and my Citizen Orca starts getting properly hefty at 118 on its bracelet. Good job its titanium! I think the target weight for my horological "King Harold's axe" will be around 100g.
 
#13 · (Edited)
I asked on the other thread and its 53.8g standard.
OK, a few gramsme heavier; that plus the fact that the weight is a few mm further from the wrist's centre of rotation amplifies those few grammes a little but the biggest effect is probably subjective.

What else could be done to increase the weight.
I was thinking some sort of weight inside the case although that might not be very effective due to the limited space
Plenty of ways spring to mind. You could use a radial distribution of no4 lead shot affixed with a suitable adhesive. Perhaps crop a length of non flux-cored solder and inset it into the case back? There's A LOT of room inside that case and the movement's tiny, I don't seem to have a pic of the innards for some reason but pop the back and have a look for yourself.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Again great work. I think this version looks much better than the first attempt.
Without a doubt; to my eye that's because it puts a very interesting frame of refracted light around the dial as the minute marks flash in and out of eveshot as you rotate the wrist. before it was an unremittingly planar surface which was not "a bad thing" in itself but this rounded high relief edge really harmonises well. I will do a few more and play with the width of the torus i.e. make it bigger but maybe not cut it in to half depth as I did here. This created a prominent semicircular 'bead' which creates a tight focus of the magnified image and isn't wide enough to pick up the tip of the second hand which was the intention.

Also open to revision is whether I carry the outer edge of the torus up to the edge of the glass and radius it down into the case recess or leave a small 'land' between it and the inner edge of the casing? Hmmm... time to knock up a few CAD sketches perhaps.

Have you thought about how to turn on the LEDs?
Constantly.... o|

Instinct says install a chrono type pusher to operate a leaf spring switch made from a bit of beryllium copper scavenged from a micro-switch or something. Positioned at 10 o'clock looks favourite. The 'Gucci' fantasy solution would be to use the two strap fixing rivets on the 6 o'clock side as touch sensors to trigger a little MOSFET switch. o|o|o|o|o|

It might however be feasible to inset some contacts into the acrylic. I say "might"...
 
#19 ·
"I will continue to work on solving world hunger, global warming and providing universal justice but in the interim I'm going to mount a piezo crystal behind the roller jewel, swap the brass collet for my new polymer unit with integral microprocessor and accelerometer, replace the blue hairspring with my new special sauce variable rate composite elastomer and use a sapphire lensed light emitting diode for a stud.

Can anyone else say it? E X H I B I T I O N - B A C K "
 
#22 · (Edited)
Ooh nice find Blanchy! Not too keen on the two colours of LED dotted round the dial though, to my eye it'd have been better to stick to green all the way with maybe 12 o'clock picked out with yellow but it wouldn't stop me wearing that.

Here's a vostok with leds built in. I think the flick to activate would be good but would the leds not keep turning on when you move your hand?
No mate. It'd be a question of tuning the sensitivity of the switch to respond to a sharp acceleration rather than the slow changes in rate of acceleration that results from daily wrist movement.

Had another session at the lathe this morning and here's rev3...





...filed and lapped a new tool (old drill bit) this time with a 5mm diameter and carried the lens all the way to the edge. Here it is in situ but could still do with a few more thou on the diameter to get a real 'press' fit but better than the first one







...and on the wrist...





Yeah that's more like it. :think:
 
#24 ·
Phew that's a question and a half but... why not eh? I've been working on disparate but converging elements for a good while now such as this lens and the movement and the case arrangements and gasketing right down to sourcing good looking M2 Torx screws. I can see a form emerging from the mists.
 
#25 ·
Is there anything new under the sun?

:roll: Just when y'think you've come up with an original idea...

the Phillipe Starck "Torus"... what else?





...OK Phil... if that's the way you want to play, I'll see your torus and raise you... 12 individual cyclops'... there, how'd ya like them onions?

Don't know whether to be peeved or self-congratulatory in that we've both had the same idea? b-)