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Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil

7.6K views 13 replies 9 participants last post by  Dan S  
#1 ·
Hi everyone,

I'm looking to purchase a ladies size 21x28mm Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil and I'm struggling to find good info on them online. They seem to have been produced from 1969?-1990s? and there are a variety of references, sizes, and slight changes to the crown (clover vs traditional) and a variety of different casebacks. From what I understand there are also hand-wound and quartz versions for each of these as well.

Some questions I had below:

1. Reference #s: Anyone know the differences in reference #s and production years?
2. Cartier Signature: Do all of these have the hidden Cartier signature? I've also seen this on both the X and the VII, what is the difference? I've also seen some examples without the signature (left image below), does this mean the dial has been redone?
3. Quartz vs. Mechanical: for such an old watch, are there any pros & cons for quartz vs hand wound? Do these quartz watches last forever (with regular battery changes) like the mechanical ones do (with regular service)?
4. Purchase advice: What should I look out for in general before purchasing? Not sure if these are commonly faked. Do the examples below look ok?

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Any advice or direction is much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
 
#2 · (Edited)
I'm not surprised that you're not finding much online, because these are not really particularly desirable for collectors. They were budget entry-level watches sold by Cartier at the time, to capitalize on their brand. As such, everything about them is pretty cheaply made; the plating is thin and often wears badly.

There are definitely a lot of fakes, but it's not always so easy to tell at first glance, because the authentic ones are also pretty cheap looking. If you study the fonts and the engravings, you will learn to tell the difference, and that's what I'd recommend.

Quartz movements can last a pretty long time, but they do fail eventually, and sometimes they are destroyed by leaking batteries. When that happens, repairs are not really cost-effective, and one generally looks to replace the entire movement with something equivalent.

Edit: All that said, they sell for surprising prices. People really want the Cartier name.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the responses! Here is a close up of the dial and movement of the watch with the brown strap. Seller is reputable and the watch seems to be in better condition than the one with the black strap.

Only concern is that there’s no hidden Cartier signature. Seems like everything else checks out though?

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#6 ·
Great watches! All this "cheaply made & low quality" is a bs. You're getting solid silver watch made by Cartier, unfortunately gold plated. And unfortunately these are not well documented and there are many fakes. So if you would research them and document them you would do all of us a great favor.

I personally would go for a quartz, just because at the moment most "serious collectors" hate quartz and there is no second hand so visually it's doesn't matter. Cartier used high quality jeweled quartz movements and yes they will run accurately forever. Obviously these might need service or even parts replacement from time to time, but not even close to how often those "desirable" mechanical movements would need service and parts.

You can bring the watch you want to buy to Cartier for a battery replacement. If they see it's a fake they will refuse the service. Obviously you want to be a better authenticity expert then them, they do mistakes, but it's something.
 
#7 ·
Great watches! All this "cheaply made & low quality" is a bs. You're getting solid silver watch made by Cartier, unfortunately gold plated. And unfortunately these are not well documented and there are many fakes. So if you would research them and document them you would do all of us a great favor.

I personally would go for a quartz, just because at the moment most "serious collectors" hate quartz and there is no second hand so visually it's doesn't matter. Cartier used high quality jeweled quartz movements and yes they will run accurately forever. Obviously these might need service or even parts replacement from time to time, but not even close to how often those "desirable" mechanical movements would need service and parts.
Haha ... no more drunk posting for you! :D
 
#10 ·
The Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil is a classic with variations in reference numbers, dial signatures, and movements (quartz or mechanical). The hidden Cartier signature is often found under the numeral XII, though some earlier models may lack it. Quartz versions require less maintenance but lack the traditional charm of hand-wound models. When purchasing, focus on the watch's condition, check the serial number for authenticity, and verify the movement type. The Must de Cartier Tank on EBTH is a good example, offering a well-maintained quartz option. Always make sure to buy from trusted sources to avoid fakes.
 
#11 ·
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