The Breitling Chronomat 40mm GMT is a gorgeous watch, unusually managing to combine many desirable traits at the same time.
It is beautiful and a bit bling close up, but at a distance, apart from those aficionados noticing the rouleaux bracelet, it is subtle.
We are at the goldilocks size (at least for me with a smallish 6.7” wrist). Comfort is a big issue, and here the Chronomat excels. At just over 11 ½ mm thick and 47mm lug-to-lug, it is large enough have presence, be stable on the wrist and not slide around, but dainty enough to sit well within my wrist edges. The weight is also on the lower side for a metal bracelet watch.
The bracelet looks and feel integrated, but you can change it with any strap you want.
It has a screw down crown and 200m water resistance, making it excellent for travel where you don’t want to take your watch off, including swimming, inclement weather, etc.
In fact it is a bit genre defying. It could be a diving watch with the timing bezel, water resistance and crown guards, a dress watch, or the one that most appeals to me, the gentlemen traveller. I have seriously never worn a watch which can pull off explorer and dress vibes so well at the same time.
All the dial colours are lovely, the ice white I liked for its clarity and “go with anything” style. It is like more handsome and lightweight Explorer II
The bracelet is really a stand out feature of this watch. It is difficult to describe without seeing in the flesh and the cylindrical links provoke immediate comments from even watch non-aficionados.
One key downside is no adjustable buckle or micro-adjustments. I know that the butterfly (and hidden) clasp is still rampant in the industry (no thanks Rolex for the Land dweller
) but it does mean I need to wear it slightly loose as my wrist moves a bit between the north and the tropics. This is offset somewhat by the extreme comfort of the rouleaux design, which even pips the jubilee for comfort. There is also a half link. Difficult to spot, near the clasp.Breitling makes some of the most complex bracelets. The Navitimer bracelet (and Classic Avi) are the only ones I actually take to a jeweller to adjust as its such a hassle. The Chronomat bracelet is not a hassle but it is strange. You have to push out a pin in a satin link. The pin cowling comes off, and then a long collar comes out which joins link arms from two adjoining links.
The case is quite interesting and unexpected. First of all it is entirely brushed, including the sides and the top. The signature avenger bezel is polished, and has easy turning using the protruding compass points. Breitling has used the rehaut for the second time. The black on white font is easy to see. The pips are applied steel oblongs filled with lime. The GMT hand is red, together with the GMT letters on the dial. There is minimal writing and the original Breitling B is stylish. There is also a B logo at the end of the second hand which looks very premium.
There are shallow curving crown guards protecting a large polished onion crown which is easy to turn. The case is finished off with thin polished chamfering down both sides.
Everyone has a different opinion on GMT mechanism but this chronometer grade incablock ETA 2893-2 (2002 design) derived one is my favourite. You adjust the time with the crown full out. You then click one in. One way turns the date and the other way moves the GMT hand in simple jumps. It is so easy to set and adjust.
The bracelet is brushed, with two small polished indents every second link. The fact that the majority of the case and bracelet is stain brushed with only certain surfaces polished looks stunning.
Normally it is easy to categorise a watch style, but this watch has its own sports style. For me its a daily wearer and travel watch. It loves a dinner suite and jeans and a t-shirt. Breitling’s watches have certainly come a long way, and for those that are looking for a classy daily wearer with the looks and the features, the Chronomat GMT has to be on the list.
