This isn't a Glycine issue, it's a 2824 (and copies of like SW200, PT5000, STP1-11) issue.

That's not that much hand-winding, and hand winding didn't cause it. It's caused by poor lubrication of the reverser wheels in the auto winding module of the 2824-pattern design. This can be attributed to poor factory lubrication or the lubrication simply degrading with time/age. The reverser gears turn both during hand and auto winding, they are part of the auto winding module. Very common in any movement built to the 2824 design. Sellitas seem to be more prone to develop this early in life for some reason than ETA, but I've had ETA develop it intermittently in under a year (coincidentally also a Glycine).

The movement is a bog standard 2824 or, more likely, SW200, with a custom rotor. Parts are absolutely available (Tudor and Breitling also uses those same movements). Though they likely cannot get Glycine parts like hands, crown, seals... They really shouldn't need to replace any of those to fix this given the watch is so new, but they will probably insist on a full service versus just fixing the gummy reversers. Take it to a watchmaker, not a dealer (especially dealers that don't carry Glycine). Many dealers don't have watchmakers on staff, and even if they do they aren't likely going to service a brand they don't carry.

 

Oh boy.

Queue the parade of people who just know without a doubt that 2824 and Sellita don’t have hand winding issues.

 

Oh boy.

Queue the parade of people who just know without a doubt that 2824 and Sellita don’t have hand winding issues.

Hand winding doesn't cause the reverser gears to foul up and helicopter rotor. The issue presents during hand winding, but isn't caused by it. It's a lubrication issue combined with a design that's particularly sensitive to the condition of the lubricant.

This is a problem with the 2824 design. The reversers turn both with the rotor and the winding crown. If they are gummed up, not only will the rotor spin with the crown, auto-winding efficiency will also be affected.

 

When it comes to the ETA 2824-2 and the SW 200-1 (and movements based on these two movements), winding is not the issue, but overwinding is the issue.

 

That’s false.

 

NOTE: I don't want to disparage all Glycine watches, so I want to emphasize that this problem only happens on the few models listed below:

Combat Sub 48 (ref: GL0190, GL0241, GL0243, GL0098, GL0095, GL0096, GL0097), Combat Sub 48 Bronze (ref: GL0200, GL0243 ), Combat Sub 46 (ref: GL0254, GL0255, GL0256, GL0257, GL0258, GL0274, GL0275, GL0276, GL0278, GL0279, GL0280, GL0282, GL0288, GL0292, GL0293, GL0294), Combat Sub 42 (ref: GL0189, GL0244, GL0186, GL0094, GL0076, GL0077, GL0078, GL0079, GL0080, GL0081, GL0082, GL0083, GL0084, GL0085, GL0086, GL0087, GL0088, GL0089, GL0090, GL0091, GL0253, GL0171, GL0249, GL0092, GL0093, GL0173, GL0185, GL0271, GL0272, GL0273, GL0295), Combat Sub 42 Bronze (ref: GL0187, GL0174, GL0188, GL0242, GL0281), Combat Sub 42 Vintage Bronze (ref: GL0265, GL0266, GL0268), Combat Classic 43 (ref: GL0101, GL0102, GL0103, GL0104, GL0109, GL0110), Combat Classic 36 (ref: GL0105, GL0106, GL0107, GL0108, GL0111, GL0112), Combat Classic Open Heart (ref: GL0120, GL0121), Combat 6 Classic Bronze (ref: GL0283, GL0284, GL0285, GL0286, GL0287), Combat 6 Classic (ref: GL0297, GL0298, GL0299), Combat Classic Vintage (ref: GL0122, GL0123, GL0124)

My Combat Sub 36, which is so accurate people don't believe me, won't wind. When I wind it, the rotor turns around.

Watch-Nerd74 posted the following (on another post):
About your Glycine GL224, it’s based on the ETA 2824-2 which is notorious for the problem you describe. The reversing wheels are buggered so the rotor spins when you wind it. I’ve heard it’s because it’s not very robust when you hand-wind, so you should try not to hand wind it (or do it the bare minimum). I have a few watches with the 2824-2 and had to service 2 with the same issue.

For six days, I didn't wear it, so I hand-wound it every day (about 30 turns, not all the way) and that's what wrecked it. I didn't know you could break a Swiss watch by hand-winding it, so I guess that's on me!

I won't send it to FixMyWatch.com, the official Glycine repair shop, because they ruin people's watches (see post entitled, "Glycine's two-year warranty is through FixMyWatch.com and it's worse then useless.")

I took it to my local Kansas City luxury watch dealer (Meierotto's - AD Rolex/Tudor/IWC/Omega/Breitling) and they won't work on it because they can't get the parts. I called the only other luxury watch dealer in Kansas City (Tivol - AD Rolex/Tudor/Cartier/JLC) and they won't work on it either.

I emailed Glycine yesterday about this problem and they never got back to me, and I'm pretty sure they never will; they're the ones who told me to go to FixMyWatch.com. I called FixMyWatch and they don't answer and they don't call back and other people say they can't even get their emails returned after they sent in their watch.

SO DON'T MANUALLY WIND YOUR GL224.

Did you really need to start a second thread for this? As you said in your own post, the GL224 is not a unique movement. "Based on" the 2824 is even a stretch. It is an ETA-2824, or now almost certainly a Sellita SW200-1 because I seriously doubt Swatch is still handing out 2824s to Invicta, unless they had some kind of long term contract in place before Swatch pulled everything ETA in-house.

This can happen to some of them. Is it incredibly common? No. The SW200-1 below about $2000 is ubiquitous, it's in pretty much everything below that mark that says "Swiss Made" on the dial and isn't a Swatch Group brand. If SW200-1s were shattering left and right from hand winding, a whole lot of watch companies would be bankrupt from warranty repair costs they would be eating. Obviously that's not happening.

I've owned probably a dozen SW200-1s. I hand wind them all, and they're all fine. It is not that common of a problem. I've seen some literature from Sellita that says the watch should be held at a 30 degree angle while hand winding. That's just naturally how I hold them in my left hand so I'm looking directly at the dial as I wind the watch with my right. Why you would hold a watch flat to hand wind it, I don't know. But don't do that.

This is a solvable problem. You can indeed get it fixed, ever. It's a freaking 2824. It's the most common Swiss movement there is. People have done this, it's gonna be ok. It's either a 2824, or an SW200-1, probably with a rotor on it that says Glycine Watch Co or something. Anyone can work on a 2824. If you're a watchmaker and you can't handle a 2824, you should get a different job.

Now should you pay for a full overhaul of a broken 2824? No. Get yourself a PT5000, or if you want to go nuts, an LJP G100. Put the watch in a box, along with the PT5000 or LJP. Send it to any decent indie watch shop, they will swap the movement for you. You can even sell the old broken movement on ebay for parts if you want to.

25 Jewels 28800 Bph PT5000 Automatic Movement Replacement for ETA2824-2 Movement | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 25 Jewels 28800 Bph PT5000 Automatic Movement Replacement for ETA2824-2 Movement at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

MOVEMENT AUTOMATIC LA JOUX-PERRET G100 STANDARD ETA 2824-2 COMPAT., SWISS MADE | eBay

LA JOUX PERRET. (Casing, Dial Hands fully compatible with ETA 2824). (Gehäuse, Zifferblatt, Zeiger kompatibel mit ETA 2824). Rhodium plated, 11 1/2 ligne, 24 Jewels, Automatic, Sweep Seconds, Date. SWISS MADE.

www.ebay.com

 

I assumed that if two luxury watch dealers can't buy Glycine parts, that an independent watch maker couldn't buy them either, but I'll give it a try and I'll post here if it works.

 

Good lord man, let it go! Are you going to start a new thread every other day on this subject?

 

So you wound it everyday for 6 days and didn’t wear it? Why even wind it? And what is a turn that’s not all the way? Not saying that’s the cause of failure, but seems unnecessary to me.

 

Return to Costco

 

How much did you pay for it?

It shouldn't be that surprising that a Swiss watch that sells brand new for less than $300 has a crap warranty.

Like I said in the other thread... just pay out of pocket to fix the movement. It shouldn't be that expensive.

 

You're right. It costs $280 which means that the warranty card was meaningless.

 

The jewelers probably won’t work on it because what they would do is swap the movement. While it’s a standard Forrest Gump movement, the hands and especially the dial would be unique and probably unobtainable by a non-certified glycine service center.

Hands are really the main issue with swapping movements, they are quite delicate and easily bent.

It’s a shame the manufacturer doesn’t service the watches themselves.

 

Seriously? Unless you're a hamfisted ape of a watchmaker, you should be able to remove a handset and put it back without destroying it.

My guess is that they didn't want to work on it because it's not worth their time. They are ADs that sell high-end luxury brands, and if they even bother to service anything on site, they'd want it to be high margin brands they sell and have accounts for.

A good indie shop is not going to turn you down for a movement swap, even without a Glycine parts account.

 

Easy fix and not really a major issue with the eta or sw, China made copies are a problem though.

 

The only reason I have a watch winder is to get my autos started over night without having to wind them the next day. But if you decide each day what to wear, this method won’t work…

 

NOTE: I don't want to disparage all Glycine watches, so I want to emphasize that this problem only happens on the few models listed below:

Combat Sub 48 (ref: GL0190, GL0241, GL0243, GL0098, GL0095, GL0096, GL0097), Combat Sub 48 Bronze (ref: GL0200, GL0243 ), Combat Sub 46 (ref: GL0254, GL0255, GL0256, GL0257, GL0258, GL0274, GL0275, GL0276, GL0278, GL0279, GL0280, GL0282, GL0288, GL0292, GL0293, GL0294), Combat Sub 42 (ref: GL0189, GL0244, GL0186, GL0094, GL0076, GL0077, GL0078, GL0079, GL0080, GL0081, GL0082, GL0083, GL0084, GL0085, GL0086, GL0087, GL0088, GL0089, GL0090, GL0091, GL0253, GL0171, GL0249, GL0092, GL0093, GL0173, GL0185, GL0271, GL0272, GL0273, GL0295), Combat Sub 42 Bronze (ref: GL0187, GL0174, GL0188, GL0242, GL0281), Combat Sub 42 Vintage Bronze (ref: GL0265, GL0266, GL0268), Combat Classic 43 (ref: GL0101, GL0102, GL0103, GL0104, GL0109, GL0110), Combat Classic 36 (ref: GL0105, GL0106, GL0107, GL0108, GL0111, GL0112), Combat Classic Open Heart (ref: GL0120, GL0121), Combat 6 Classic Bronze (ref: GL0283, GL0284, GL0285, GL0286, GL0287), Combat 6 Classic (ref: GL0297, GL0298, GL0299), Combat Classic Vintage (ref: GL0122, GL0123, GL0124)

My Combat Sub 36, which is so accurate people don't believe me, won't wind. When I wind it, the rotor turns around.

Watch-Nerd74 posted the following (on another post):
About your Glycine GL224, it’s based on the ETA 2824-2 which is notorious for the problem you describe. The reversing wheels are buggered so the rotor spins when you wind it. I’ve heard it’s because it’s not very robust when you hand-wind, so you should try not to hand wind it (or do it the bare minimum). I have a few watches with the 2824-2 and had to service 2 with the same issue.

For six days, I didn't wear it, so I hand-wound it every day (about 30 turns, not all the way) and that's what wrecked it. I didn't know you could break a Swiss watch by hand-winding it, so I guess that's on me!

I won't send it to FixMyWatch.com, the official Glycine repair shop, because they ruin people's watches (see post entitled, "Glycine's two-year warranty is through FixMyWatch.com and it's worse then useless.")

I took it to my local Kansas City luxury watch dealer (Meierotto's - AD Rolex/Tudor/IWC/Omega/Breitling) and they won't work on it because they can't get the parts. I called the only other luxury watch dealer in Kansas City (Tivol - AD Rolex/Tudor/Cartier/JLC) and they won't work on it either.

I emailed Glycine yesterday about this problem and they never got back to me, and I'm pretty sure they never will; they're the ones who told me to go to FixMyWatch.com. I called FixMyWatch and they don't answer and they don't call back and other people say they can't even get their emails returned after they sent in their watch.

SO DON'T MANUALLY WIND YOUR GL224.

wish I had known sooner. Bought a owned one this year. Sure enough, it would stop working after hand winding it a bit. No 30 turns, maybe 15. Never worked right so I got rid of it.

 

A watchmaker who can’t repair an off the shelf sw200? I guess they make their money swapping fossil batteries

 

I had this same issue with my SW200 (Oris 733) powered Aquis, my AD sent it off and had it fixed. I don't know what places you're going to that can't service an SW200/ETA 2824, but that sounds pretty bizarre...it's as though you said you took a Toyota Corolla to a mechanic and they said they had no idea how to work on it lol, it just doesn't make any sense. But similarly if I took random watches to ADs that don't sell them most would similarly suggest taking to a watchmaker.

Have you tried searching for a watchmaker on AWCI?

Find a Professional

awci.memberclicks.net

 

These should be the easiest serviceable movements around. I’d look for a different watchmaker.

 

I ’d look for a different watchmaker.

+1

 

"Can't be fixed ever"........
My dude, you need to find a real watchmaker. Reverser gear wear can be easily dealt with.

 

I took it to Meierottos' jewelers and Tivol jewelers in Kansas City and they wouldn't work on it, then I took it to an independent watchmaker (who doesn't sell watches) on 6/23 (today is 6/27). They said they knew someone who works at home who might be able to work on it. I still haven't heard back from them.

 

Stop the bleeding. Buy a new, better watch.
Perhaps you can recover a few dollars by selling the old beater as a parts watch.

Ali

 

Please allow me a tiny thread hijack, since it’s regarding the same topic…
I wear my Glycine a few times a week during workouts/household chores, etc. Would it be wise to keep it on the winder (I have one already), or just set it when I use it?
I typically feel a winder puts unnecessary wear on an automatic watch. If damage from hand winding is a possibility, is keeping it on the winder the lesser of two “evils?”

 

Please allow me a tiny thread hijack, since it’s regarding the same topic…
I wear my Glycine a few times a week during workouts/household chores, etc. Would it be wise to keep it on the winder (I have one already), or just set it when I use it?
I typically feel a winder puts unnecessary wear on an automatic watch. If damage from hand winding is a possibility, is keeping it on the winder the lesser of two “evils?”

Yes. I should have put it on a winder.

 

The real story here seems to be that there aren't any actual watchmakers in Kansas City.

 

Your're right. People who live in Kansas City shouldn't buy Glycine watches.

 

Good to know.