I did. I did a few with the SMP300, the issue you mention was the problem with that - the scalloped bezel is a diabolical piece of design - it can just about be turned by hand when it's wet. With a lot of hassle. But it absolutely cannot be turned with a gloved hand in the wet. Which means the diver has to take a glove off to do it. Divers wear gloves for a reason - taking them off on the surface is not a good start.
Perhaps on watches where the bezel spring has loosened up, this is easier, but on a new watch or a freshly serviced watch, it was a non starter. For reference, I'd dive with 5 or 7mm gloves.
The skeleton hands get a lot of jip too - on a watch with good lume they're fine, on a watch where the loom is aging, less so. The weekend crowd will say they don't have any issues - and when you're sufficiently shallow to have good light, I'm sure that's true. Dive watches need to be easy to use, reliable, robust and legible - take one of those things away and there are better choices.
So while I've no doubt they're sufficiently waterproof and robust, in practice they're a pain in the arse to use and so I don't. For reference, I dived with a 2541.80, the fundamentals would be the same for the chronometer, for the midsize models and the black 'Peter Blake' variants and the first wave dial co-axialwhich followed.
The Planet Ocean is still a Seamaster - that's a different beast. Easy to use with a gloved hand, very legible indeed at depth and sufficiently robust. On a practical note - a challenge with that is that the larger model (the better one for actual diving - legibility, however slight) is that finding an extra long NATO in 22mm is a challenge (a regular nato won't get over a dry suit arm)
I had reliability problems with mine unrelated to its operation which had me switch to something else. But today's model I'd have no hesitation taking down with me (nor the previous model to be honest).
I don't like the clasp for diving - I've never had a mishap, but I just don't fancy it. I'd always slap a NATO on.