WatchUSeek Watch Forums banner

Post your favorite buckles and clasps for two-piece straps

5K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  Mauric  
#1 · (Edited)
The short of the idea for the thread:

Describe your favorite buckles or clasps for two piece straps.

(To keep it manageable since there's a lot of different systems used on one-piece straps.)

(And hopefully I'm not overlooking a similar-enough competing thread.)

EDIT: Err, I am.



But I suppose we'll call this thread and updated and expanded/inclusive thread, or if nothing else, my explanation of an aftermarket solution for the "strap on the inside" deployant clasp-style that hasn't been discussed much before, if at all.

My longer version:

Strap journey:


Like many, I've enjoyed exploring different bracelets and straps in addition to watches.

Back when, the Tudor BB distressed leather strap inspired me to explore similar alternatives.

I soon realized that softness and relative thinness were important qualities (toward comfort) for me, especially for leather straps.

Add affordability onto my heap of criteria.

It seems to me that folks eventually find a preferred leather strap maker. For me, it was Martu straps. They check off all my likes (distressed, soft + thin = comfortable, affordable).


Butterfly deployant clasp journey:

After I acquired a bunch of two-piece leather and fabric straps, I realized that I don't like the "balance on your ribs" step in securing a buckle.

After some research into alternatives, it seemed deployant clasps were the alternative way to go.

At the time, I was only seeing butterfly deployant clasps.

I tried a few different affordable options out. I found a few to have hot spots or were otherwise uncomfortable, with a lot of metal touching the skin with this clasp type.

I eventually discovered an affordable butterfly deployant on Amazon that was relatively comfortable. And while it came polished, it was simple enough to brush the clasp if so desired. (Though it seems they've since come out with a matte silver version [emoji106])


I ended up buying a bunch of them over time (basically one for every leather or fabric strap that I had).

Image


"Strap on the inside" deployant clasp journey:

I recently learned about a different sort of two-piece clasp type, where one of the two strap sides tucks under the wrist (on the inside of the clasp).

I heard it was a very comfortable solution since very little metal contacts the wrist.

I'm still newer to this strap type, so I don't know too much about it's history.

But I've seen references to it as a Breitling-style, Omega-style, and Christopher Ward Bader-style deployant clasp.

I found a few affordable alternatives on Amazon and decided to give a brushed one a try. Most of my straps taper from 20mm (at the lugs) to 18mm (at the buckle), or 18mm to 16mm. So I decided to start with an 18mm clasp.


I had an old Martu leather strap laying around that I was willing to experiment on.

After orienting myself with some pictures of similar clasps online, I figured out that one side attaches with a spring bar. The other side is slid in (I had to fold my strap at the sides a bit to get it within the tabs that help secure it) and then the desired hole (for length) is pressed down on the small raised circular part to further secure it.

Since this clasp style obviates the need for any keepers, I removed the one sliding keeper on my strap. The other keeper was permanently mounted near where the buckle originally was. I cut it in half with scissors, took an X-Acto knife to the "pocket" into which it was glued, ripped it out, and then resealed the "pocket" with some super glue.

Here's the end product:

Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


While I imagine specific to this particular variant of this style of clasp, some elements of the hardware seem like they put some wear on the strap (the keeper tabs can be a bit harsh to the side/top of the strap during installation, and the end of the metal tracks seem to indent the strap a bit in one place. And it seems like this one shortens the strap length (I'm on the last hole, which fortunately fits, but you may need to do a little bit more planning as to your strap's length when contemplating use of this clasp).

But more importantly, this is undoubtedly the most comfortable clasp I've yet tried [emoji119]

So while a bit more involved of an option than a butterfly deployant clasp (in particular, it may require some strap modding if you want to do away with non-sliding/permanent keepers), I think it's currently my favorite system.

All that said, what do you all like best as far as buckles and clasps go for two-piece straps?
 
Save
#3 ·
Word. I go in and out of a preference for bracelets vs. fabric straps vs. leather straps.

I suppose the fall had me thinking a little about leather straps again, and exploring a new comfortable clasp idea, since I seem to be a clasp > buckle guy.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Save
#4 ·
The short of the idea for the thread:
Any updates on your thoughts on the ideal clasps? I was recently introduced to the clasp that has the "long" side tucked in, which makes wearing more comfortable as you alluded. Do you still recommend the same clasps via the amazon link or is there a better version?

Also this type of clasp requires no-keepers straps or floater straps, both of which are rarer to find.
 
#5 ·
No updates on my end. I've still been reasonably content with that Amazon-sourced clasp, so I haven't been on the hunt for alternatives. Regrettably the thread idea didn't seem to gain traction, to see if others had come across better alternatives.

Good point about this style of clasp making keepers not just superfluous, but turning them into awkward "warts."

The most straightforward straps to pair the clasp with are those with keepers that can just slide off.

The strap with which I've always had the clasp paired had a permanently installed keeper (plus a keeper that could slide off). So I had to cut the keeper, separate the strap a little to be able pull out the keeper (between the stitching near the clasp in the below picture), and then super glue the strap back down where I had slipped out the keeper.

Image


Thus, this style of clasp requires a little forethought about how removal of strap keepers will/can be accomplished.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Save
#6 ·
From what I understand, this style of clasp is basically a derivative of the Omega deployant clasp. Based on your set up, the buckle sits on the center of your wrist? I believe that the buckle should sit closer to the 6 o'clock so that the wrist can mold with the curvature of the deployant. Please refer to this post.


Before considering this option, I was an exclusive user of the double-fold deployant (RHD makes a good one, but Amazon ones work just as well). But I think from a comfort level, the single-fold deployant like that of Omega is better.
 
#7 ·
From what I understand, this style of clasp is basically a derivative of the Omega deployant clasp. Based on your set up, the buckle sits on the center of your wrist? I believe that the buckle should sit closer to the 6 o'clock so that the wrist can mold with the curvature of the deployant. Please refer to this post.

[/URL unfurl="true"]https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/how-should-the-omega-deployant-clasp-sit-on-the-wrist.5322858/#post-53712466[/URL]

Before considering this option, I was an exclusive user of the double-fold deployant (RHD makes a good one, but Amazon ones work just as well). But I think from a comfort level, the single-fold deployant like that of Omega is better.
Indeed. I'd heard references to Omega and Breitling. I never looked into which, or whether either, first came up with the design.

I just checked where the clasp sits on my wrist: and can confirm just about at the center.

Image


I'm at the last hole for comfort, so I don't think I could adjust even if I wanted to.

Image


Ditto about the butterfly deployants. I picked up a bunch of the decent cheap ones on Amazon. Brushed some of them myself, and kept a few stock polished. They're a little more straightforward to setup/more versatile than the type you and I prefer, so that's a plus. But the comfort of the ones we prefer seems unmatched [emoji109]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Save
#8 · (Edited)
A few observations. Everything you said about the omega style closure is spot on. The other great thing is that you never have to bend and flex the strap to fasten it. Your watch strap keeps looking better for longer, as well as being more stylish because there's no keepers

The biggest problem is that strap lengths for a standard tang clasp.are say 125/80mm, whereas standard omega lengths for a keeper-less clasp are more like 105/100.

If you fit a standard length strap to an omega closure the watch head will sit in a different part of the wrist. I found that 18/16mm and 20/18mm straps and clasps are generally ok, as the watch can be moved around the wrist to a more wrist-friendly position. However many.of the Chinese 20mm clasps for 22/20mm straps are not so friendly.

You also get the problem of fitting the strap to the clasp, as was pointed out. Some straps are just too thick to fit.

Finally, one other point is using omega closures with rubber straps. Fantastic, as long as the clasp is thick enough to accept the rubber. Some aren't.

Like others above, I now have a decent selection of both butterfly clasps and Omega clasps, and I rarely leave any watch strap on a tang.
 
#13 ·
Great info! Thx for sharing as I’ve never owned a deployant clasp and this was the best summary I’ve found comparing the different styles.

I recently injured my hand and getting a traditional buckle secured has become an exercise in frustration. I’ve been trying to find something 24mm so I can use my existing leather straps. After a bit of research on WUS and the web, I’ve found references to these. They don’t appear to be the style that tuck the free end under the deployant which would be my preference, but either style would do.



The two above might be the same, just from different shops?


Any other 24mm suggestions would be much appreciated.
 
#15 ·
There are few photos that show two models in this publication. However, the one that has the screws on the top would be my choice. If you buy, I will could you let me know the thickness of this clasp?

I cannot really say anything about the quality, but I am precisely looking for a butterfly clasp with the screws on the top. Why? I have probably more than 50 butterfly clasps, but the most confortable are those that have the screws visible, They don't have hotspots, they are super thin, like 1.2 mm.

What I do to increase the confort is to flat them a little bit with a plastic hammer to reduce the curvature and at the same time making it thinner. I also chamfered and polished the clasps with a dremel to eliminate any hotspot.
 
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.