This is what I got from Google Lens? Hopefully helps. Tony

 

Yes, 2035 seems to be the likely suspect but I think it’s a design they’ve used for ages on a bunch of calibers. No model number on this I can find.

 

Miyota 2035.

First produced in 1982 as a Citizen calibre (can't remember the cal no offhand), still in production with several billion units made 40 years later.

Probably the most successful watch movement in history. And decent quality - it's only as cheap as it is because they've made so many!

Oh, and find another local watchmaker because his attitude sucks 😉

 

Miyota 2035.

First produced in 1982 as a Citizen calibre (can't remember the cal no offhand), still in production with several billion units made 40 years later.

Probably the most successful watch movement in history. And decent quality - it's only as cheap as it is because they've made so many!

Oh, and find another local watchmaker because his attitude sucks [emoji6]

I appreciate the confirmation AND ESPECIALLY the sentiment!

My feeling is, of course, yeah it’s a $5 movement — how long to swap it out for any watchmaker? 45 min? I’d happily pay $50 for an hour’s time at their leisure so grandma can have her fun watch back. Heck, I’d buy the movement on eBay and have it on hand for the guy.

All that said, for that price I can get a few extra cheap tools and do it myself, which might even be a better sentiment… with the added pressure of screwing it up, of course.

 

That does look like the same movement, part from the problematic one having 1 jewel. The 2035 might be a more modern version and might indeed fit.

Oh, and as for your watchmaker ...
It doesn't matter if he thinks it isn't "worth" his time, as the customer is paying for that time. He can advise the customer that the cost will exceed the market value of the watch, but it is then up to the customer to decide if the sentimental value warrants the repair anyways.
So yeah, get in touch with another watchmaker. Preferably one that actually wants to work on watches.

 

That does look like the same movement, part from the problematic one having 1 jewel. The 2035 might be a more modern version and might indeed fit.

It is the same movement.

The original (Citizen branded) version had the jewel because everyone knew back then that "watches need jewels". Only, with quartz (at least in the now standard layout used here) they really don't.

Initially, when the Miyota version came out, they continued that, probably just because that's how production was set up. At some point since they deleted the (really not needed) jewel but it's identical otherwise

They also now do a "gold" version with battery life extended from 3 to 4 years.

 

I did a similar swap for a friend at work. Her old Mickey Mouse watch had died, so I searched and found the same movement and installed it on my glass rangetop (very good lighting in the kitchen). Basically, remove crown and stem, then remove the movement with dial and hands attached. Remove hands using special tool purchased from Amazon (not expensive). Remove dial and install it on new movement. Install hands using special tool purchased from Amazon (not expensive). Replace movement with dial and hands into case.

Or just pay the watchmaker to do it.

 

Thanks for the confirmation. Do all of these movements fit to dials via “pressure posts” just pushed on or is it luck of the draw?

 

Almost all (properly made) watches use dial feet (posts on the back of the dial), but how they're held to the movement varies.

Most mechanical movements use either screws or latches, most quartz use "press fit" holes. But some of each type buck that trend.

In this case, the 2035 is a "normal" quartz with press-fitting.

 

Thank you all! This is super helpful. Ironically/poetically, it feels like the cost of having a watchmaker (not the one who couldn’t be bothered) do it is about the cost of the tools — some of which I already have.

What is the old parable about “teaching someone to fish…” ?

Looks like this is doable on my own now that I have some clarity on the movement and its availability, and the general ease of replacement.

What an incredible group here, never fails to inspire and support! Thanks again.

 

To be fair, a lot of the cost of having a watchmaker do it is his knowledge. In exactly the same way that, if you go to a mortgage adviser, you're paying for what he knows rather than the physical paperwork he gives you.

It crops up a lot on here with things like opening unusual cases or removing stems. After coming up 3 decades, it's unlikely there's any watch out there I can't find my way into safely and there certainly isn't a stem I can't remove.

There are a LOT of cases and stem releases I've never seen before, but the knowledge I"be built through study and experience lets me work them out.

There is also the matter of tools, stock, consumables etc but - over the length of a career - they're actually pretty minor. I've finally replaced my go-to pair of general tweezers this week which I bought in about 1997. How many thousands of jobs do the £15 or so they cost get spread over in that time?

Same goes for my pressure testers - they were good second hand from my old boss when he upgraded & have given me over a quarter century of reliable use for the sake of a few seals over the years. What I paid him for them was returned decades ago!

So, if it's the knowledge (and the ability to apply it to new situations) that's the real value, pointing someone in the right direction on a specific piece now and then is no great shakes and no threat to my livelihood.

If it helps someone out, then that's great

 

Don't throw the old movement in the trash. I rebuilt one of those in a watch my child flooded. She was really upset about it. So, I jumped in, no technical guide and went for it. I took pictures at every step and reversed the order to rebuild. That stupidly cheap movement is perfectly serviceable. Nothing tricky or "not really meant to come apart" like the cheap chinese copy of it I tried to rebuild. You might be surprised once it is relieved of old sticky oils, it may spring to life. The watch is still running today. I changed the battery recently and the last one lasted 3 years so I would say it is fine.

Go fishing my friend.

If you follow these forums long enough, you will learn that there are watchmakers that will fix anything that keeps time without judgement. If a customer is willing to pay a reasonable rate, they will work on it. I wrote about the above repair on another forum. Several real watchmakers commented that they serviced these, usually for regular customers because they were the only ones that asked. They could strip clean and rebuild these in less than an hour. Often giving them something to do while waiting for other stuff to finish. I met a local watchmaker that performed a repair for me, at a reasonable rate, but made sure that I knew my Seiko was not a Rolex and he was not happy to do my simple fix on my junk watch but he would work it in between "real" watches. I saw a disassembled Rolex on his bench and was fascinated by it. I got a crazy idea that I could service a watch. So I did.

 

I forgot to mention the help, guidance, tips, encouragement and a life time of know-how graciously shared by real watchmakers like Joe Horner. I promise my accumulated skills are no threat to any trained watchmaker but I enjoy the journey.

 

I appreciate both the above sentiments so much. Of course, when it comes to my high-end, mechanical, complicated watches, I’m confident and grateful to have a watchmaker able to tackle service/repair — and the point about paying for the expertise is exactly why.

I remember my watchmaker taking no more than five minutes to diagnose and replace a chronograph pusher spring on a Speedmaster and, graciously, saying he didn’t need to charge me — we’d had a few big projects the months before. But I asked how much he’d usually charge if he hadn’t done it in that moment with a friendly customer peering over his shoulder. He quoted me a reasonable sum and said “You’re not paying for the five minutes it takes to fix, you’re paying for the 15 years it took to make it a five minute fix.”

 

We’ve been trying to fix a grandparent’s watch and it’s been a hassle — Long story short, it’ll run for a few minutes and then start to stutter, sometimes restarting, sometimes just stopping entirely or getting a minuscule “jitter” — I’ll push/pull the crown and that might get a minute or two of timekeeping but then it will stop again or jitter. A local watchmaker has made it clear it isn’t worth their time to fix beyond a new battery.

This is a financially worthless watch, an Armitron from the 80s, but we would like to get it running.

It feels like the best course of action is to try and replace the movement which I can do myself as opposed to diagnosing and solving an issue.

Does anyone have an ID/replacement model on this?

Thanks!
View attachment 17326541

We’ve been trying to fix a grandparent’s watch and it’s been a hassle — Long story short, it’ll run for a few minutes and then start to stutter, sometimes restarting, sometimes just stopping entirely or getting a minuscule “jitter” — I’ll push/pull the crown and that might get a minute or two of timekeeping but then it will stop again or jitter. A local watchmaker has made it clear it isn’t worth their time to fix beyond a new battery.

This is a financially worthless watch, an Armitron from the 80s, but we would like to get it running.

It feels like the best course of action is to try and replace the movement which I can do myself as opposed to diagnosing and solving an issue.

Does anyone have an ID/replacement model on this?

Thanks!
View attachment 17326541

I assume that you dont just want to replace you want to upgrade and this is the easiest movement for such a task. The Miyota 2035 super (2 hand) and 2036 super (3 hand) high accuracy gold plated drop in movements. They are direct drop-in replacement movements, even the hands will fit but they are not jeweled. I have been replacing both the Miyota 2035 & 2036 movements with the ETA 980.101 7 jewel movement, especially in watches with remarkably good cases & styling eg my Paolo Gucci's (his family cut him off from the Swiss manufacturers. All these watches have compatible dial feet locations and are the same size but the ETA movements will require the holes in the hands to be carefully enlarged. There is also the Harley Ronda 1064 which appears to be the same but I have not tried one yet.
Capt Glen C. Lambert