Highly recommend Omega SMP. (If you can find -older model).

Also take a look at Longines Hydroconquest.

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The new seamaster is pure quality in my opinion, the finish is quality and the brand is luxury


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The Monta Ocean King gets the balance right IMO

*not my pic

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have you had a look at the new breitlings?
perhaps a colt over the Superocean line, if height bothers you.

or these,

 

have you had a look at the new breitlings?
perhaps a colt over the Superocean line, if height bothers you.

or these,

View attachment 14789359

What watch is this?

 

...The Submariner was great. I still love the design of the modern Sub- wide lugs and all. I ended up selling it due to the baggage that comes along with wearing one of the most recognizable luxury items you can buy. I was sensitive about wearing such a recognizable watch that people know is expensive. I no longer really care about that baggage aspect, so I definitely regret selling that one.

Anyone know of other options within a price range of $3000-$5000?

Who cares about 'baggage'? It's whatever you like and want to wear. I saw your headline and said "Submariner is what he needs." That, or a Sea Dweller is really the middle ground between a tool watch and a luxury dress watch - a Seiko diver is a great tool watch, is dependable, but it will NEVER be a watch I'd wear with a tuxedo or even a business suit. A Submariner can be used for both fun and business, and it will never let you down. Just spend the coin and don't look back.

 

I would look at the new Prospex LX Spring Drive 300m diver or a Grand Seiko Spring Drive diver.

I agree 100% with you on the Rolex Sub. It is too recognizable and I don’t want clients judging me, unscrupulous people sizing me up, and dealing with any potential negative outcomes from all the Rolex perceptions (which might be positives to others but not for my lifestyle.)

I have a Pelagos and I know what you mean. If it had applied indices and chrome hands it would be perfect. It’s just a touch too much on the tool side with the painted hands to be the perfect “one” watch.

The perfect “one” watch to me in my collection is the Spring Drive 600 GMT but I only wear mine on a Sinn rubber because the bracelet is not up to the bulk of the watch head. And it’s a little chunky too.

 

IMO the Breitling SOH 42 offers you a lot. Not only is it a great looking watch it can take the rough stuff too.

 

If you liked the Pelagos:

 

Way below your budget but I second the Monta Oceanking 2.

Also below budget but the Longines Legend Diver has a luxurious but still decidedly tool vibe.

And then various Rado Captain Cooks balance the two criteria nicely, albeit under budget.

Tudor offerings strike me as maybe a slight bit too too toolish of an aesthetic for what you’re after, but definitely the king of your price range.

Toward the top-end of the budget, various Seamaster 300s are coming to mind.


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I would mention the latest model Breitling Superocean II (more tool) or SOH (dressier) or Avenger Seawolf (tough and big), new Omega SMP 300, or some of the newer Tudor pieces.

 

Might I suggest the Oris Divers (65) and Aquis lines? I bit dressier than most Tudor, elegant without the baggage of Rolex. Clean designs, numerous variations, and in your budget, you could buy two and be double happy.

The Oris Aquis Date is bloody gorgeous if you ask me. And there are definitely situations where I'd dress upward with this rather than my Pelagos LHD.

 

Oris or Captain Cook

 

Oris or Captain Cook

View attachment 14790923

That RADO would also be acceptable.

 

Since you mention Seiko. I have had two black bays, a Pelagos, mm300, planet ocean and have ended up back with:

Pick up one of those and a seamaster and you will be set.

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I love this advice.

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The obvious answer is Panerai.

 

I am ABSOLUTELY loathe to admit it, but there it is - specifically a PAM 512 in my not so humble opinion...

If I ever get one of these, I will commit ABSOLUTE blasphemy and have it relumed in a nice "whitish" C3, then I'll fit it to a bracelet - BOTH middle fingers extended to the Paneristi crowd, LOL...

 

Omega Seamaster Ploprof

 

I absolutely love rugged tool watches. Something about how bulletproof and capable they are really appeals to me.
...

The closest middle between tool and refined was the Seiko Shogun. Slimmer than the MM300, but the hands are not my cup of tea.

Anyone know of other options within a price range of $3000-$5000?

I assumed the Seiko Shogun is this ... https://www.ablogtowatch.com/the-seiko-sbdc007-watch-via-monochrome/

I'm curious, have you considered in having the hands of the Seiko Shogun changed to the one that you like?

 

How about a non-diver...Tudor North Flag, Tudor Black Bay 41, or Omega Railmaster?

 

Grand seiko jas some brand new divers

I love GS but was not too impressed with these divers because they were too dressy

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I absolutely love rugged tool watches. Something about how bulletproof and capable they are really appeals to me. I've had the Tudor Pelagos and the Sinn U1 both pass through my collection. As much as I love those watches, they both left me wanting something a tad bit more refined.

I think the Grand Seiko 9F drivers strike an ideal balance between these requirements.

Smaller in height and overall case size vs. a MM300, extremely robust and "tool"-ish in nature, and yet with great finishing and details.

I particularly like the smaller no-date variants from a few years ago...

(* picture sourced from http://timelessluxwatches.com)

 

I think the Grand Seiko 9F drivers strike an ideal balance between these requirements.

Smaller in height and overall case size vs. a MM300, extremely robust and "tool"-ish in nature, and yet with great finishing and details.

I particularly like the smaller no-date variants from a few years ago...

View attachment 14791423
(* picture sourced from http://timelessluxwatches.com)

Do you know which reference/model is this? I did not find them in this web...

 

The update JDM model looks darn good. SBGX337

And if you don't mind a quartz movement, the SBGN003 is available in the US.

 

Below your budget, but how about the Tourby Lawless?

 

Given that you bought the sub, I wonder if your budget is based on your concern around the Luxery recognition or purely price.

I will say that a Paneria used to hit that spot nicely but in the last 10 years it’s very distinctive design and size makes it a bit louder than it used to be. However, a nice PAM titanium used would fit the bill.

Also, can’t recommend enough the blancpain bathyscaphe. It’s a bit more but used you could come close to your range.

For fun there are also the now discontinued JlC master divers. I see those pick up around that price. Solid piece and interesting.


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Longines HydroConquest. There are some great write-ups on Time and Time, Fratello, Worn, etc. Running the 2892 keeps the height at 12mm and it easily switches from dress to sports with a bracelet to strap change...

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Breitling, Tudor, Omega all have my vote


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I chose these for that role.





I wish I still owned this one:


The PO not the PP.