When doing a bracelet change on a watch with solid end links I put polyimide tape on all surfaces that might get contacted by a tool and then I use end link pliers to compress both ends of the spring bar at the same time. Makes removal and installation a breeze if you have the pliers adjusted correctly and get your technique and angles down.

I don't have pictures of a bracelet change on a GS handy (because I've never had a reason to do it) but I did take pictures when I changed the DJ41 from Oyster to Jubilee. The pictures don't show anything in the way of my technique but they do show the taping and the way I have the spring bar pliers set up.

 

Those pics are lovely Brian.

 

Yeah, I can changes straps easy because of the pin holes, but tweezers like above are mandatory for bracelet install. I just put my bracelet back on this AM. I was missing it. ;-)

 

Nice system. I use either simple springbar tweezers or a Bergeon double-ended springbar tool. The polyamide tape is the key. It's thin, tough, and because of it, you don't really have to worry about just laying the springbar on the lugs and pushing in with the Bergeon.

 

I use Bergeon 7825 tweezers & a cheap generic version of the pliers that BrianBinFL has in his photos. With some watches, I find it easier to put the watch on a firm cushion instead of a table to slide in the end-links at the right angle. Thus far, I haven't had the need to use tape (knock wood).

 

Thanks all. I had purchase an AM pair of the pliers and just need to get to grips with them.

 

My advice, for whatever it is worth, is:

• The tips often have a flat face and a rounded face, have the flat faces facing inwards toward each other
• Be sure the flat faces are absolutely parallel to each other. If you can find something made of metal that's square that's about 20mm wide you can leave the tips sort of loose in the tool, "grab" the block, and then tighten the tips after they rotate a little and square up with each other.
• Make sure the tips are set to the same length as each other (protrude the same amount from the fixing rod/nut)

If you don't have the tips adjusted right then you won't get a good grip on the spring bar and you'll get frustrated quickly (and possibly scratch something when it slips off the spring bar).

If you've got it all adjusted correctly you should be able to grab the spring bar, compress both ends, and then guide the solid end link into position while keeping both ends of the spring bar compressed. Then once the spring bar is within the slot you can let go of the spring bar and snap into final position.

Good luck!