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The quality of Grand Seiko 9R15 movement compared to some entry level high end Swiss movements

14K views 56 replies 22 participants last post by  drhr  
#1 ·
After owning GS SBGA109 limited edition for almost a year now, I have come to full appreciation for the GS brand. I like to share some photos that display the beauty of 9R15 movement. IMHO, the hand polishing achieved is breathtaking and better than most of the polishing on entry level high end Swiss movements. Photos of my entry level movements from AP and Piaget are included for comparison. The GS movement has slightly better polishing than the AP 3120, but the AP has hand beveling where the GS beveling looks to be machine stamped. The GS movement is better looking than the Piaget 800P in almost all departments except the 800P has blued screws. I think GS deserves tons of respect for churning out such a nice movement at significantly less price. Hope you enjoy!





 
#6 ·
Hehehe.

I should add that if you want to compare the finishing on a couple of Grand Seikos (SBGA129 and SBGX103) with a variety of high-end Swiss and German watches (including Rolex, FP Journe, MB&F, Panerai, AP, A Lange & Sohne...) head over to my Instagram feed.

http://www.instagram.com/watchdxb

The GS's are up there with the best.

Kind regards,

Gerald.
 
#8 ·
Thoughts on cutting corners

After owning GS SBGA109 limited edition for almost a year now, I have come to full appreciation for the GS brand. I like to share some photos that display the beauty of 9R15 movement. IMHO, the hand polishing achieved is breathtaking and better than most of the polishing on entry level high end Swiss movements. Photos of my entry level movements from AP and Piaget are included for comparison. The GS movement has slightly better polishing than the AP 3120, but the AP has hand beveling where the GS beveling looks to be machine stamped. The GS movement is better looking than the Piaget 800P in almost all departments except the 800P has blued screws. I think GS deserves tons of respect for churning out such a nice movement at significantly less price. Hope you enjoy!

[pics deleted]
The measure of a man's character is found in his closet. The measure of a watch movement's finishing is found in its corners. Seiko literally cut corners in designing the movement's bridges of the SBGA109's movement.

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Audemars Piguet 3120

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3120 Rotor Removed

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Piaget 800P

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I think Seiko has done a very fine job executing the finishing elements they've included in their SBGA109's movement. I'm not terribly familiar with the SD watches Seiko offer and thus must based my view on yours and other images. Based on those images and constraining my comparison of the AP and Piaget to a comparable level of detail, I gotta say the sole things I see comparable between the GS you noted and the other two makers movements is that each of them have accomplished to a very high degree what they have undertaken to accomplish. It strikes me as patently obvious that makers of either Swiss movement have endeavored to incorporate more, more advanced finishing elements into their movement design and execution than has the GS SD movement you've cited.

Movement finishing is unquestionably about execution. The thing is that there's no doubt in anyone's mind that all three makers are more than capable of executing to the highest degree; it's only a matter of when and on which movements they opt to do so. With an egalitarian spirit, I'm fine with considering the three noted makers equal, regardless of whether a loupe would show them to be in fact equal, on the matter of whether they've executed to comparable extents.

Along with "mere" execution, finishing also must also consider what elements a maker includes in the movement. It's one thing to, say, bevel/chamfer an edge, it's another to do so to an inside edge or sharp corner. Since watchmakers have wide degrees of freedom as to how they design the visible components with which they can "show off," it stands to reason that as an observer comparing a maker's output, the more sophisticated the techniques are, and the more of them present, the more credit a maker is due. In that context, I ask you, where are the corners in the Seiko? I see a lot of lovely curves and not-so-sharp corners on the Seiko's movement, I see few sharp corners -- two or three -- that are beveled/chamfered. Looking at the 800P and 3120, I'm sure you can also see more corners and more sharp corners than are present on the GS discussed here.

Another element of finishing is the artfulness of it. Looking at the Piaget, I see circular Geneva "striping," which alone ups the art ante. But lets now consider last the single most obvious illustration of finishing present in the three watches: the rotor. Perhaps you didn't notice them? <winks> Well, I bid you look at them. Even with it's lion, the GS just isn't in the same league. Need I say more?

You compared the price of the GS with that of a, say, Piaget Polo and AP RO. Were you being held at gunpoint when you did so? <winks> [dramatic for effect, not to be derisive] No matter how slight be the correlation between production effort and cost and MSRP, a watch is more than it's movement and finishing applies to the case and bracelet as well. The RO is one of the HEW segments finishing benchmarks as goes case/bracelet finish. The Polo is right there with it, although not as widely distributed or as well known.

The GS is an extremely well made and designed watch (case and bracelet) but again, there's not a lot of art in the external parts of the watch. I mean really, one would need to be considerably less price sensitive (conscious of utilitarian value propositions) than a huge number of consumers, even HEW consumers, to pay a $5K to $15K premium for the artfulness of the GS's external elements. And as any highly self indulgent consumer, a genuine luxury consumer, knows, art and style are expensive and rare. There's no good/rational reason (other than that people are willing to pay silly sums for it) for it to be so; it just is.

Lastly, I'm not attempting to knock the GS SD, but I am trying to cast a bit of perspective to the discussion. Yes, the GS model discussed here is a very fine watch. It's considerably more accurate than either of the other two could ever hope to be. But superior on finishing? Not remotely close, to say nothing of superior.

All the best.

If it's true that our species is alone in the universe, then I'd have to say the universe aimed rather low and settled for very little.
― George Carlin
 
#10 ·
Re: Thoughts on cutting corners

The measure of a man's character is found in his closet. The measure of a watch movement's finishing is found in its corners. Seiko literally cut corners in designing the movement's bridges of the SBGA109's movement.

I think Seiko has done a very fine job executing the finishing elements they've included in their SBGA109's movement. I'm not terribly familiar with the SD watches Seiko offer and thus must based my view on yours and other images. Based on those images and constraining my comparison of the AP and Piaget to a comparable level of detail, I gotta say the sole things I see comparable between the GS you noted and the other two makers movements is that each of them have accomplished to a very high degree what they have undertaken to accomplish. It strikes me as patently obvious that makers of either Swiss movement have endeavored to incorporate more, more advanced finishing elements into their movement design and execution than has the GS SD movement you've cited.

Movement finishing is unquestionably about execution. The thing is that there's no doubt in anyone's mind that all three makers are more than capable of executing to the highest degree; it's only a matter of when and on which movements they opt to do so. With an egalitarian spirit, I'm fine with considering the three noted makers equal, regardless of whether a loupe would show them to be in fact equal, on the matter of whether they've executed to comparable extents.

Along with "mere" execution, finishing also must also consider what elements a maker includes in the movement. It's one thing to, say, bevel/chamfer an edge, it's another to do so to an inside edge or sharp corner. Since watchmakers have wide degrees of freedom as to how they design the visible components with which they can "show off," it stands to reason that as an observer comparing a maker's output, the more sophisticated the techniques are, and the more of them present, the more credit a maker is due. In that context, I ask you, where are the corners in the Seiko? I see a lot of lovely curves and not-so-sharp corners on the Seiko's movement, I see few sharp corners -- two or three -- that are beveled/chamfered. Looking at the 800P and 3120, I'm sure you can also see more corners and more sharp corners than are present on the GS discussed here.

Another element of finishing is the artfulness of it. Looking at the Piaget, I see circular Geneva "striping," which alone ups the art ante. But lets now consider last the single most obvious illustration of finishing present in the three watches: the rotor. Perhaps you didn't notice them? <winks> Well, I bid you look at them. Even with it's lion, the GS just isn't in the same league. Need I say more?

You compared the price of the GS with that of a, say, Piaget Polo and AP RO. Were you being held at gunpoint when you did so? <winks> [dramatic for effect, not to be derisive] No matter how slight be the correlation between production effort and cost and MSRP, a watch is more than it's movement and finishing applies to the case and bracelet as well. The RO is one of the HEW segments finishing benchmarks as goes case/bracelet finish. The Polo is right there with it, although not as widely distributed or as well known.

The GS is an extremely well made and designed watch (case and bracelet) but again, there's not a lot of art in the external parts of the watch. I mean really, one would need to be considerably less price sensitive (conscious of utilitarian value propositions) than a huge number of consumers, even HEW consumers, to pay a $5K to $15K premium for the artfulness of the GS's external elements. And as any highly self indulgent consumer, a genuine luxury consumer, knows, art and style are expensive and rare. There's no good/rational reason (other than that people are willing to pay silly sums for it) for it to be so; it just is.

Lastly, I'm not attempting to knock the GS SD, but I am trying to cast a bit of perspective to the discussion. Yes, the GS model discussed here is a very fine watch. It's considerably more accurate than either of the other two could ever hope to be. But superior on finishing? Not remotely close, to say nothing of superior.

All the best.

If it's true that our species is alone in the universe, then I'd have to say the universe aimed rather low and settled for very little.
― George Carlin
Great stuff and very interesting tony, learned a bit more as always . . .
 
#9 ·
Here's where I add some photos of that go to the overall nature and extent of finishing that simply does not exist on the GS SD. The are the best photos I could quickly find and it's worth noting that these are from a 2004 prototype piece, not a production piece. I just couldn't find any comparable close-up photos from an 800P or GS movement.

3120 Pallet

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3120 Escape Wheel

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3120 Sub Bridge -- and some more corners

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3120 Barrel

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3120 Balance and weights

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3120 Balance Bridge and stud carrier

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Note: I don't know if the unevenness I see is due to camera angle or slovenliness.

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All the best.
 
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#11 ·
BTW, I didn't address the blue screws because at this level of watchmaking, two watches would need to in fact be very objectively close in all other regards for a bunch of screws, screws that you or I could as well make blue in our kitchen ovens/stove top, to have any meaningful impact on my impression of one movement's overall finishing relative to that of the other watch.

All the best.
 
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#13 ·
My own pareidolia didn't kick in to see that until you suggested it. I think you'd make a good hunter or scout.

All the best.
 
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#21 ·
Re: Thoughts on cutting corners

I'm curious as to what high-end owners make of Grand Seiko. Would you buy one? Have you toyed with the idea at all? If you wouldn't, which of these factors would put you off most:

1. The fact it's a Seiko and most people outside Japan and WUS would look at it and think it's a $100 mall watch.
2. The fact it's a Seiko and you don't think you'd pull it off in front of your friends even if it did cost a few thousand.
3. The fact the finishing is approx. only on par with entry-level Swiss/German high-ends, not mid or top-level.
4. The fact that Seiko aren't as old a company as certain Swiss and German brands and even if they've made innovations, they're not of a type you find particularly interesting.
5. Anything else? (Please state).

And yeah, I'm only looking for replies here from high-end owners, not random peasants (tongue in cheek) like me who wander in, just a caveat.
 
#23 ·
I'm curious as to what high-end owners make of Grand Seiko. Would you buy one? Have you toyed with the idea at all? If you wouldn't, which of these factors would put you off most:

1. The fact it's a Seiko and most people outside Japan and WUS would look at it and think it's a $100 mall watch.
2. The fact it's a Seiko and you don't think you'd pull it off in front of your friends even if it did cost a few thousand.
3. The fact the finishing is approx. only on par with entry-level Swiss/German high-ends, not mid or top-level.
4. The fact that Seiko aren't as old a company as certain Swiss and German brands and even if they've made innovations, they're not of a type you find particularly interesting.
5. Anything else? (Please state).

And yeah, I'm only looking for replies here from high-end owners, not random peasants (tongue in cheek) like me who wander in, just a caveat.
I'll count myself in the random peasant category as I own a Rolex. For me, I don't really care about 1,2 & 4 and was seriously considering a 'snowflake' instead of a Rollie. The quality and workmanship on GS' seem to be on par or close. In the end, it was mostly an aesthetic choice. Competing with, or providing an alternative to, Rolex seems to be the GS strategy. That 'role' in my collection is filled so I can't see myself getting one. I'll be looking for a hand finished dress watch next and that isn't where I see GS comfortably sitting - the movements are machine finished with no display case-back. For something close-ish in price in that category I'd consider a GO before a GS. The Credor line is what I see as Seiko's High End option
 
#25 · (Edited)
Re: Thoughts on cutting corners

1. The fact it's a Seiko and most people outside Japan and WUS would look at it and think it's a $100 mall watch.
Not at all as I would never make a purchasing decision based on what other people, either real or fictitious, think. I would love to meet these mythical GS and Rolex critics lurking in the shadows waiting to criticize my $100 mall watch or chastise me for buying a Rolex as a status symbol only. Also Invicta appears to be doing well within this same group.
3. The fact the finishing is approx. only on par with entry-level Swiss/German high-ends, not mid or top-level.
I think the fit and finish (movement, case, dial, etc.) are on par with 99% of the watches made by companies like JLC and GO. Would this prevent anyone here from considering a JLC, GO, UN, or other Swiss/German brands with entry level finishing for a "high-end" brand? I doubt anyone here would consider the finish of these brands on par with ALS, PP, Chopard LUC, AP, or the top independents. IMO GS belongs in the same category as Rolex, JLC, GO, Cartier, UN, and other within the brands with models in the same price range. If I wanted a Seiko with top-level finishing I would go with a Credor.
4. The fact that Seiko aren't as old a company as certain Swiss and German brands and even if they've made innovations, they're not of a type you find particularly interesting.
How do you define old? They have been around since the end of the 19th century and have been in the same family since that time. Would the same critique apply to brands revived in the 1980's and 90's like ALS, Breguet, and Blancpain with manufactured founding dates? How about companies that have changed ownership or are no longer independents?
5. Anything else? (Please state).

And yeah, I'm only looking for replies here from high-end owners, not random peasants (tongue in cheek) like me who wander in, just a caveat.[/QUOTE]
 
#32 ·
Re: Thoughts on cutting corners

Deeper roots higher reach, i love you (platonically). You're full of surprises. Still a little drunk...*wink*
Hey cool pauopiper, thx! Hopefully your little drunk didn't come from a very big drunk ;-) . . .
 
#42 ·
Another peasant checking in. :)

Out of the 4 options presented, none are applicable to me. My only reason for owning watches around the GS price range (GO, Zenith, DornblĂĽth) without owning a GS is pretty simple: aesthetically, those watches appealed to me more.

That said, I have given serious thought to an sbgw031, and would jump on the 3-handed LE (only 200 produced, iirc) green dial high-beat, whose reference number escapes me at the moment.
 
#52 ·
Re: Thoughts on cutting corners

Nice watches, OP. I own a 9S66 in the SBGM029, and an AP 3120 in the 15450. I don't have much knowledge of Piaget but I have the PP 324 SC in the 5711. I also have the JLC 899 in the master control.

The way I see it, all these houses strive to make the best watch they can. It's just that their philosophies are different.

GS practices functional finishing, much like JLC. This is in line with their philosophy of making the best possible functional watch. AP, PP, VC, Lange et al finish their movements to a much higher level but most of it is aesthetic and serves little functional purpose. They however preserve a tradition of watch finishing that goes back centuries. And this, to some people, is important.

GS and JLC adjust their movements to 6 positions. PP adjusts theirs to 5.

It boils down to what you want out of your watch. Me, I appreciate both aspects but philosophically, I'm on the side of GS and JLC - function over form. Aesthetics, though, is a different thing. Here, I think PP, AP and VC make very compelling products that both look and function great.
 
#53 ·
Re: Thoughts on cutting corners

The way I see it, all these houses strive to make the best watch they can. It's just that their philosophies are different.

GS practices functional finishing, much like JLC. This is in line with their philosophy of making the best possible functional watch. AP, PP, VC, Lange et al finish their movements to a much higher level but most of it is aesthetic and serves little functional purpose. They however preserve a tradition of watch finishing that goes back centuries. And this, to some people, is important.

GS and JLC adjust their movements to 6 positions. PP adjusts theirs to 5.

It boils down to what you want out of your watch. Me, I appreciate both aspects but philosophically, I'm on the side of GS and JLC - function over form. Aesthetics, though, is a different thing. Here, I think PP, AP and VC make very compelling products that both look and function great.
Nicely put Shoen!
 
#54 ·
Re: Thoughts on cutting corners

Although some may argue, I think (generally) one gets what they pay for with watches. Not MSRP but BNIB pricing from trusted sellers finds its level. I would hope a $10k watch has more to it than a $5K watch. Same with a $30K watch vs. a $15K watch... and I think they do. I also struggle with the argument some make that a $X priced watch is just as good in all regard as a 2$X watch for the same reasons.
 
#56 ·
Re: Thoughts on cutting corners

Although some may argue, I think (generally) one gets what they pay for with watches. Not MSRP but BNIB pricing from trusted sellers finds its level. I would hope a $10k watch has more to it than a $5K watch. Same with a $30K watch vs. a $15K watch... and I think they do. I also struggle with the argument some make that a $X priced watch is just as good in all regard as a 2$X watch for the same reasons.
Can't agree with you more Tseg. I have 4 watches and my "optimal" timepiece (it's about 24X the cost of the lowest one or 3.5X the next closest) is the best in all facets vs. the other 3. I would guess people who make the claim haven't had a real experience with a HEW or really only care about one facet of their watch. But no disrespect to them. I think it's tremendous to have pride in what you own and what you can afford. It's a ridiculous hobby after all if we get too uptight about it...
 
#55 · (Edited)
Re: Thoughts on cutting corners

Haven't read through the entire thread so I apologize if my comment ends up out of context with the flow of current conversation, but, with that said:

I have always considered Grand Seiko to be more of a direct rival to Rolex and something of an equal to JLC than as true competition to the higher end (and higher priced) Swiss brands. To that end, I think Seiko has done a remarkable job. I lusted over the purchase of my SBGA029 to the extent that nothing else for $5,000 could have persuaded me out of it. Because of Grand Seiko, I can honestly and truthfully claim I cannot justify the current retail price of a Rolex in any capacity, and as such will likely never purchase one ( a new one, that is - like my 16803, I believe vintage Rolex is still king).

I am however interested to see what Seiko can do with Credor. They have unquestionably established Grand Seiko, but I rarely see mention of Credor's latest creations and I get the impression the focus has been on Grand Seiko first and foremost. Credor is the true competitor to the Swiss high end and it will be interesting to see if Seiko makes a push to move Credor into western consciousness the way it has Grand Seiko.