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Thoughts on Glashütte Original Calibre 39

12K views 13 replies 8 participants last post by  Asiafish1967  
#1 ·
Hello!

I'm looking at purchasing a Glashütte Original Senator Sixties model, which contains the Calibre 39-59. I'm in the process of trying to learn everything and anything I can about the movement. I've read about its history (GO movement history: The development of the current selfwinding cal. 39), examined it in person under a loupe, and just generally burned through a million pictures of the movement that exist online.

How do you, as someone with more experience in watchmaking, look at this movement?

  • What are some of its unique features that you would highlight? Elements like the Glashütte three quarters plate, swan neck adjustment, skeletonized rotor, stand out to me, but what are some more subtle, interesting elements?
  • Any noteworthy technical features that would differentiate it from other movements at the same price range?
  • How would you rate the finish on the watch? The striping seems very well done, and I appreciate the skeletonized rotor and polished countersinks. The GO website claims beveled edges, but I don't really see where those are? Is it strange that there are no blued screws in the movement, even though cheaper watches from other brands (and more expensive GO watches), have them?
I've got a relatively light background in watchmaking compared to many on this forum; I've disassembled and reassembled a handful of vintage watch movements, so know my way around the basics, but would appreciate your more experienced views! Any thoughts you could provide would be really valuable.

A quick picture:
 
#6 ·
I think what they mean by beveling in this case is "anglage" from the French "angler" and I suspect that "Anglage" is Franclish. "angler " means either bevel of more correctly "chamfer". I don't think for the main part we can see most of it because is is hand done with chamfering tools. The technical definition of "chamfer" is "to form a small flat surface by cutting down a sharp edge" according to Berner's "Dcitionnaire professionnel de l'horlopgerie".

It saw anglage done at the Rochat plant in Les Buis . It was explaned to me that in truth, it is totally useless as far as increasing the mechanical quality of the watch goes, but it is a cosmetic surface treatment that makes the watch movement move beautiful.

It is time consuming and difficult to do and can only be done by hand using burnishing tools. I think this is what they are driving at by talking about "bevels" not what you and I would ordinarily mean by bevels.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the thoughts everyone! That's a great point about the polished screw heads - I imagine nicely polished screw heads are actually more challenging to produce and arguably more beautiful than blued ones.

@Samantha - definitely can see the beveling on that photo now, makes sense! But is it strange that in another photo, the bridge seems cut with no beveling? Perhaps I'm overthinking this...

 
#8 ·
Thanks for the thoughts everyone! That's a great point about the polished screw heads - I imagine nicely polished screw heads are actually more challenging to produce and arguably more beautiful than blued ones.

@Samantha - definitely can see the beveling on that photo now, makes sense! But is it strange that in another photo, the bridge seems cut with no beveling? Perhaps I'm overthinking this...

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A blued screw is a polished screw then heated, so bluing is the more labour intensive process.

Personally aesthetically I only get blued screws on gilded plates, doesn't work on rhodiumed plates for me.

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#14 ·
I know this is an old thread, but couldn’t resist as I own a Sixties model (GO moved these out of the Senator collection and paired then with the 70s series for “Vintage”) with the Caliber 39-52. The movement finishing is beautiful, quite a bit nicer than the more mainstream brands at this price point like Tag, Breitling and Omega (which comes very close in some movements).

Where the GO Sixties models really excel however is in the dial. Mine is the simple time-only model with the white dial and rose gold hands and indices, but despite what should be a very simple color, the dial really has a lot going on. The hour markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 Are beautifully painted in an eclectic font that resembles not only the original GUB watch on which it is based, but also some 1960s Times Marlins (this is a good thing). All other hour markers are incised into the dial and the grooves are plated in 18kt rose gold, as are the hands. The dial is also slightly domed with a pie-pan shape that I just can’t stop staring at.

Some complain that the movement is too small for the case and I can see where they get that from, but to me it is just a beautifully finished movement at the very lowest rung of high-horology, fitted in a watch that is entirely deserving of that classification, if just barely. Rolex, JLC, Seiko, Omega and even ETA have some movements with more advanced engineering than the GO 39, but none at a similar price point that are as nicely finished.

Just my $0.02 as a Sixties owner.

PS, I was attracted to this model by similarities with the 1956 Omega Constellation that I inherited from my father. I mostly wear that one on special occasions now, but the GO is my everyday office watch.
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