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Tudor sales slump by 23% but Rolex turnover ticks up 5% to CHF 10.6 billion

8.4K views 75 replies 44 participants last post by  whynotnow?  
#1 ·
#3 ·
Purely subjective here. I know Tudor is a very popular watch especially amongst watch enthusiasts. And is a solid watch mechanically speaking too. But ive always found them very unappealing to the eye. Nearly every one i've seen. Again this is purely subjective I know. But speaking in that subjective manner I can't say im surprised as i've often wanted to like the tudor (due to reading what people post) but... just can't.

I feel like theyve done a pretty good job of making themselves seem distinct from Rolex. So id be surprised if it was some sort of "Ill save for a rolex instead" syndrome.

We were talking in the other thread about how the low-tier luxury watches seem to be getting squeezed a bit between the high end luxury and the more affordable. So maybe connected to that?
 
#30 ·
This seems pretty spot on. In my opinion there is a value gap between certain vintage and modern luxury watches that people have started to realize. The value of vintage is generally based on a bunch of different factors that have had years to "stabilize". Prices of modern stuff are based on what the company decides the value is and thus you will get better deals even for the best of the best vintage.
I'd assume this trend turns the other way the more expensive and rarer (50/50 on this) the watch gets.
 
#5 ·
Im not a big Tudor fan.
They have a few cool pieces and Ive owned a few but after the honeymoon wears off they sit in the vault more than most of my other watches.
 
#9 ·
Tudor follows the industry (albeit beats it), but Rolex has a backlog.

Nothing here earth shattering. If Rolex were publicly traded it would follow the same pattern as everyone else and there's be no backlog.
 
#13 ·
I genuinely like my BB36, but it's the older style, and the new version does nothing for me.

Wife bought herself a 1926 (28mm black/gold dial, S/G case and bracelet) and loves it; the opaline/gold 36mm version is always on my short list.

But otherwise... meh. The BB Pro came out too large, the 39mm Pelagos should have been more Pelagos-like, and the closest I need to get to a FXD is a Tactical Frog FX-Diver.
 
#15 ·
Tudor hasn't released many potential hits the last couple years. Monochrome aside.

BB54 Blue or Green
Pelagos 39 Blue or Green
BB70 7016/7021 Sub Release
No update of BB58 clasp to T-Fit

Instead, each new release last couple of years has been meh. So I believe it's not about Tudor, more about their curious release strategy.
 
#16 ·
It's not just Tudor.

The "mid-luxury" segment in watches hasn't performed well recently, overall.

Swatch SA had poor recent results.

But PP had a decent jump in revenue (though profit took a hit) - will be interesting to see their 2024-25 results when they arrive.

My take is that the "BIG" names won't suffer, the ultra-high end won't suffer, but the mid will. Consumer sentiment in the West coupled with China slowdown. It's not just watches though - all discretionary consumer goods are slowing up.

Now, can we get back to actually talking about watches, please? The financials really suck the fun out of things. Unless you're a shareholder - I'm sure there's a sub-forum on the Bloomberg Terminal somewhere for you to enjoy.

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#22 ·
FXD and Pelagos offerings still have legs. The BB dive and GMT is tired. Chronograph colorway is played out. They need to do a retro chronograph. They need to redo the Ranger without the butt plug hour hand and flat indices. They need to redo the BB 3 hand and 1926. They need to drop the Clair de Rose and Royal.
 
#28 ·
I have a FXD, but realistically it is not a very versatile watch to wear, and to many, neither is the Pelagos. Neither scream luxury - which is why I like them, but is also why many don’t. I have a lot of respect for Tudor for making them.

The BB MC a fantastic watch - I would take one over a Seamaster Pro any day. But the GMT and Chrono’s look too thick because of the slab sided case - this has always been a criticism of the BB - and they absolutely should have done more to address it when they moved to the MC movement.

The Ranger never sold in volume, which is why it was dropped - I don’t expect it to come back

Chronographs are where a lot of the market is now, as people are expecting more complications for their money. Breitling and TAG have a lot of share here, and I don’t think Tudor’s current approach - which is turning a diver into a chronograph is a good strategy. For example, the Seamaster Chronograph is crap, the Speedy is excellent.

I think there’s potential for a refreshed Monte Carlo, which is neither a Pelagos or BB and so can perhaps allow Tudor to develop a thinner looking case while cutting the cord on those infernal snowflakes. Great on a diver - ridiculous on a chronograph.

I don’t think there is anything wrong with Tudor’s brand and marks.
 
#23 ·
I like Tudor just fine. I have a GMT, S&G, Pelagos and a beloved blue BB58...I like the snow flake hands, I like a fat watch. They are affordable and provide a lot of quality/value for the buck...I have arguably nicer watches, but the Tudors always make a strong, "wear me today" case whenever I go to the watch drawer to pick out a different watch to wear for the day... (y) :cool:
 
#24 ·
A few year old Tudor is a pretty excellent value though! I love the new GMT movement too. But I think no discounts on a pretty mediocre 2-ish year resale hurts their brand image. Whereas Rolex has grey market that is well above MSRP. To me it's just the market.
 
#33 ·
In the UK I suspect the economy has changed peoples spending habits. Covid changed the market in luxury items for a few years which drew new customers into the watch market. Same with cycling. You couldnt buy any bike at one point so the few that hit the stores were selling instantly and second hand bikes were trading over retail. The brands hiked their prices every few months as they had a licence to print money. That boom is over now. To the point theyre just not selling as the retail prices are ridiculous which is why you see permanent "sales" in bike shops. The mid tier bikes are still not selling at sale prices.

I think a similar thing has happened to the watch market. As always you need to take Rolex out of the conversation as they seem to have their own little economy. Tudor have likely been affected as its a brand thats priced in the higher end of entry to Swiss watches ie people moving from an Apple Watch into a "proper watch" will look at Tag Heuer first (after realising they cant buy the other brand they know with exhibition only signs on them) followed by Omega thanks to Bond. Then they see that they can buy something similar to a seamaster for half the price and thats what triggered the brief gold rush for Tudor watches. Its really helped them get into the mainstream though. I have a few friends that bought them over the past year as theyre now more aware of the brand. When I bought my first gen BB those same people just shrugged when I told them the brand. I would be interested to see how Omega sales are faring in comparison to Tudor. I use a couple of ADs and their Omega sales are on the floor. Theyre not Tudor dealers but get numerous requests for them. Its still pretty hard to get a discount on Tudor whereas Omega are heading back to pre covid years where its almost offered when you walk in. Tudor pre owned market is way stronger than the Omega market. In summary it's not just Tudor that is suffering in their category. On the plus side it's shaking a few dodgy secondary dealers out of the tree.
 
#34 ·
#35 ·
If Tudor's reaction to these dismal figures is yet another variant of the BB, I won't be surprised. It's called a rut.

Tudor has a great back catalogue, and the runway to do something different, and should take advantage.

It needs to surprise and get everyone talking, as happened with the OG BB58.
 
#60 ·
If Tudor's reaction to these dismal figures is yet another variant of the BB, I won't be surprised. It's called a rut.

Tudor has a great back catalogue, and the runway to do something different, and should take advantage.

It needs to surprise and get everyone talking, as happened with the OG BB58.
wow..interesting. so rolex sold 1.2mil units. amazing they can keep all of these under wraps and have peeps stand in line and wait. i would've thought oris would be selling more and cartier less. but the list shows how much fashion brands drives sales...zenith only 12k?.....😮
 
#36 ·
My two cents is that Tudor's positioning and branding within the Rolex family is one of the issues driving the problem.

When Tudor first started, I think Tudor was the brand that essentially used excess Rolex parts an made watches at a lower price point (I could be wrong here, but I thought they were watches that essentially took Rolex parts and made different watches).

In a strange way, with that mandate, Tudor was free to make wild and wacky designs so long as the parts and internals didn't really require a lot of R&D or sourcing.

However, being wild and wacky to an extent can be hit or miss, and for awhile in the US at least, it was mostly miss. So Tudor disappeared and went into the background and regrouped.

Tudor then rebranded as the "Rolex before it became Rolex" brand. It looked into the archives and made variations on historically based designs. So, it seemed to me, Tudor became the brand for those nostalgic of Rolex past designs, but more importantly, Rolex prices of the past and availability of the past.

This was hugely successful.....for awhile.

But perhaps, this is a one trick pony. Yes, there are the Pelagos line, but largely, it's been the BB company, and I see the BB as a look into the past for Rolex.

Maybe people are getting bored of this aesthetic and have, or are, moving on.

It's a fine, and perhaps unfair, line the walk. I guess you do need a bread and butter line. Lord knows Rolex is the king and champion of luxury watches because of that. However, for all other companies other than Rolex, you do need to take risks and expand the line. Some will hit. Some will miss, and that's the risk.

Maybe Tudor adopted the safe approach too much over the past year. I dunno.
 
#37 ·
Is it just me, or does “Black Bay” sound like aJC Penny clothing line? May be time to rebrand.

That said, my most worn watch of 2025 has been my two year old BB Chrono over Rolex and much “nicer” watches. The original bracelet is crap, though, and I added an Everest strap. Also have the new 5-link bracelet waiting for me at the AD. They knocked it out of the park with that (and the 41 monochrome, IMO).

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#39 ·
I've been waiting for the Tudor brand to die- not wishing, just watching.

Tudor has had some moments of true creativity, such as the Pelagos line and the North Flag. And back in the good old days they had the Big Block plus divers closely related to the Sub. Although their movements are second to none they have killed any hope of enduring style by slapping Snowflake hands on everything, resorting to faux patina and faux 'rivets.' Tudor display cases are filled with poorly executed Rolex homage designs.

There's a reason why the Tudor desk at your local AD never has anyone browsing. Look inside a Tudor boutique (why do they even exist?) and the only ones browsing are the assistants looking at their phones.

Meanwhile Rolex does what they've always done - iterate at a glacial pace. They haven't really changed but they've certainly pushed Tudor downmarket.