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What's Wrong with Maurice LaCroix?

31K views 85 replies 40 participants last post by  Jonathan T  
#1 ·
I see that there have been a few threads about Maurice LaCroix in the past, but now I just wanted to come out and ask: what's wrong with Maurice LaCroix?

I don't own an ML, but I was at a watch event this past weekend that featured a lot of ML watches, and I have to say that they were pretty impressive. It was the first time I've had a chance to handle them, and I liked what I saw. The in-house movements generally were finished well, and the designs generally were interesting. The watches felt very well-made.

I know that there's not too much talk of ML on here and that it doesn't seem to be a very well-respected brand among the WIS. But why is that? It seems to me that a brand that has in-house movements, designs that aren't consistently a total rip-off and relatively sensible prices would garner more respect than it has.

Just curious if I'm missing something.
 
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#2 ·
Never understood why they don't get more recognition myself.Such an understated brand in the WIS world.I own a older Pontos day/date & it's a champ.

I'd like to hear the reasons as well.I believe this topic has been approached here b4, but had no luck finding it.
 
#3 ·
This is a relatively young brand that early on produced a lot of fairly "blah" watches. They are beginning to build traction but it takes a while when you are starting to compete with more established brands AND have to deal with resell values that aren't very good...yet.
 
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#7 ·
This makes sense.

From a consumer standpoint the poor resale value is a good thing because decent pre-owned watches are available at reasonable prices.

I didn't realize until this weekend that ML has been around since 1975.
 
#4 ·
While you're at it, why don't you ask what's wrong with GP?
 
#5 ·
Only one French-sounding brand at a time. My feeble mind can't handle too many vowel sounds at once.
 
#9 ·
I own one.. Bought it about 6 months ago and have had nothing but problems with the self winding feature and watch being slow about 1,5 min per day. Looks like I got a lemon, but I really want to like it..

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Out of curiosity, was the movement made by ML or was it one of the outsourced ones?

I don't think I actually know anyone with an in house ML.
 
#8 ·
ML make some fine watches, and has some of the boldest designs, considering they're swiss and at their price point.

Their entry level range relooked lets them down tho. They just look cheap, and lower the overall prestige of their whole catalogue.

Also I think distribution is a factor for them. I personally don't see them around as much as their competition. So prob why they don't get talked about much. Although when they do get mentioned here it's usually in high praise.
 
#11 ·
What's wrong with Maurice LaCroix? Nothing really but maybe it's because they don't seem to have an iconic model on their collection. You know how Omega has it's SMP, PO and Speedy, Tag has it's F1's and Monacos, Seiko has it's divers and so on. Well Maurice LaCroix doesn't seem to really have its own niche or particular model that gets talked about, which I think is a problem that Raymond Weil for example also suffers from. Sure they have some nice enough watches by not so much that really gets talked about on here.
 
#13 ·
That's a very good point. Although I like some ML designs, I can't think of one particular watch that I identify with the brand.
 
#15 ·
Well, they make some nice watches - but the thing that puts me slightly off is that there is no "Maurice Lacroix" - the name is completely made up and that just doesn't go well with me... Seems slightly "dishonest"; maybe I'm a bit overracting, but why name a brand after some guy that doesn't exist? I mean, if you gou through the trouble of making up a name, why not go for the equivalent of rolex, omega, nomos etc?!
 
#30 ·
Agree, make up a non-person name.

However, it's good they didn't pick a name of a centuries-old Swiss watchmaker, and pretend there's some lineage. Those brands are "dishonest" in my opinion.

I got a Pontos for a bargain - its very well made, the dial and hands have a really thoughtful layout. There's a good ETA movement inside.

One reason ML is scoffed at is their higher end pieces, with in-house movements, are considered overpriced, and competing in a market with luxury household names. Without tradition, they are not in the club, and therefore it is seen as premature to overprice their watches. Build tradition and gravitas, and sure, charge crazy prices like the well-known brands.
 
#21 ·
Interesting views.When I think of ML I think of the Pontos line.Never looked @ it as a flagship problem, but that sounds like that is the problem.Damn I love this place I learn something new every time I log on.
 
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#34 ·
ML owners are around here. I enjoy my two a lot. I like the story behind the name and think its a brand with a bright future. They have excellent value for dollar IMO. I enjoy their dress pieces, for sport I am sticking with Rolex, Omega and Seikos though. I feel dress and formal are their strongest points.
View attachment 1652363 View attachment 1652364
Yeah, the brand definitely sticks to dress watches a lot more. They have some chronographs, but sport watches aren't really their expertise. Perhaps that would make some sense for them because sport watches are very popular. I think adding more colors may help, too. A lot of their designs are some variation of black, white and silver. There's nothing at all wrong with that, but more variety would be nice.

I like your two pieces, especially the one on the left. If I ever went with ML, I would strongly consider that one. It's a nice design, and I like manual wind watches.
 
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#24 ·
I don't own one either but one of my biggest WIS regrets was when, a few years ago, I came across a LNIB enamel dial Cadran Emaille that I could have picked up for a little over $1k. I stupidly passed on it and I'm still kicking myself.

This is a good article on the history of the Masterpiece line. It's a few years old now, but quite informative.
(The Cadran Emaille is ML56. o|)

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Historie and models
 
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#25 ·
I think they make great pieces, JP has some fine examples.
I remember going to purchase my was gonba be 2nd ML when the gentlemen said we no longer carry ML anymore as the prices have gone to a niche outside of the nall crowd

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#26 ·
ML is a neat brand that has done some interesting work, particularly in the Masterpiece line. Some years ago they used to buy up NOS movements left over from the quartz crash and then build limited runs of nice watches. Their newer work includes complicated or unusual designs often based on non-inhouse movements that have been completely rebuilt. Their newest stuff includes inhouse movements, but you can still find unusual watches at some excellent prices.

I've got two of ML's watches that are repurposed Unitas 6498/8's. The finishing is excellent and dramatically nicer than the Elabore grade 6498 that I own.
 
#35 ·
That was one of the watches I saw in person, and it was very cool.

Another one I like quite a bit that I saw was the Mysterious Seconds:


That's the one I'd probably go for if I went with an ML.
 
#32 ·
It's watches like that:

Image


That got me into ML. They have a lot of crazy Breguet-esque layouts. In the old days, they were clearly Breguet inspired, but now they're ML's unique brand of ultra-modern:

Image


It's interesting how wed they were with the layout of the complications. And they designed their own movements, they actually put pretty much the same complications in the same place.

The new way is beautiful as well, but I just love that old Breguet look.
 
#33 ·
My personal experience has been that many ADs in my neck of the woods (SW FLA) have tried to carry ML, but it remains a brand that the "general population" isn't familiar with. They've had a hard time selling them, especially when the MSRP puts them somewhere around better known Omegas, Tags and entry level Rolex. It's hard to convince the average person (looking for what often equates to a status symbol) to take a chance on an unknown entity. They just haven't been able to reach these buyers and, in the end, the dealers around here have been forced to drop the brand altogether.

It's a shame, and I'm hoping that what appears (to me) to be a strong new marketing campaign will push ML a little more towards the "mainstream". I've handled quite a few, and I am particularly fond of some of the Masterpiece Collection.

Again, this is just a regional-specific observation, but I assume it holds true in many areas.
 
#37 ·
My personal experience has been that many ADs in my neck of the woods (SW FLA) have tried to carry ML, but it remains a brand that the "general population" isn't familiar with. They've had a hard time selling them, especially when the MSRP puts them somewhere around better known Omegas, Tags and entry level Rolex. It's hard to convince the average person (looking for what often equates to a status symbol) to take a chance on an unknown entity. They just haven't been able to reach these buyers and, in the end, the dealers around here have been forced to drop the brand altogether.

It's a shame, and I'm hoping that what appears (to me) to be a strong new marketing campaign will push ML a little more towards the "mainstream". I've handled quite a few, and I am particularly fond of some of the Masterpiece Collection.

Again, this is just a regional-specific observation, but I assume it holds true in many areas.
I think that's generally right. A guy who's wiling to lay down $6k to $10k for a watch wants one with a name that he recognizes or that at least has some pedigree. It's hard to get someone to pay that kind of money for a watch brand that doesn't have either.
 
#38 ·
Where ML has been super strong, from a marketing standpoint lately, is their haute horology. The Square Seconds, the Mystery Seconds and now the Gravity have forced people to take notice and really acknowledge what the higher end of the brand is doing. They've actually got a lot in common with Grand Seiko, in a way, because we all know that 98% of their revenue isn't that $12k+ stuff, it's really affordable options like the Pontos line, but they're willing to invest in it to raise the perceptions of the brand.

Image


Well, that and they also took me out on the Redbull Cliff Diving championship. That was pretty awesome.

Image
 
#53 ·
I agree with the points.

The three watches you mentioned -- Square Seconds, Mystery Seconds and Gravity -- are all very impressive time pieces with untraditional in-house movements and unique designs. Is that worth the prices in the $8k to $12k range? That's a tough call. From a pure technical standpoint -- again, in-house movements, interesting designs and superb case-finishing -- the answer probably is yes. That's the price range that watches like this normally go for.

The problem is that there are a lot of competitors in this range, and it's hard to sell someone on an ML when they can get terrific watches in the same price range from GO, JLC (used or gray market), Rolex, Zenith, etc.

Perhaps ML's reputation will be boosted by those three watches, which seem to be attracting more attention and earning ML more respect. Until then, however, I would personally consider one of those three watches, but not until I can find one used. It's just a better consumer decision because I know that ML watches don't hold their value particularly well.
 
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#39 · (Edited)
Is that you diving? That's actually really cool!

If this weren't a watch forum I'd have about 100 questions for you. I actually don't know anything about cliff diving, but again....that's just really cool.

I will ask 1 question: what year was that?

Ok, 2 questions......how'd you do?

Edit for a third question because that looks ridiculously high; how high is that?
 
#43 · (Edited)
Is that you diving? That's actually really cool!

If this weren't a watch forum I'd have about 100 questions for you. I actually don't know anything about cliff diving, but again....that's just really cool.

I will ask 1 question: what year was that?

Ok, 2 questions......how'd you do?

Edit for a third question because that looks ridiculously high; how high is that?
Lol man, no way is that me diving. Those guys are a million times better shape than me. I have done cliff diving in the past, but we're talking like 20 feet lol. I can't even dive normally anymore...I can "cliff fall" from 20 feet lol.

I was actually up there for part of the competition, but that's not my photo. I took some but I'll have to hunt them down.

Maurice Lacroix was the major sponsor of the event and invited a few watch collectors out on their dime. ABTW was there, myself, some ML marketing people obviously, and a couple of ML collectors. I felt like a **** because I don't actually own an ML so I showed up wearing an Omega...very generous of them, great resort, got to take the boat out and get up on the cliff with the divers.

This was earlier this year at Possum Kingdom.

But to clarify, noooooo that is not me lol. I wish.
 
#42 ·
I've said it before, I'll say it again. They don't make any manufacture 3 hand watches. Look at NOMOS - same price range, manufacture 3 hand watches. We like NOMOS. ML manufacture watches either have a hundred and twenty twelve retrograde pointers or are priced too high to be considered (justifiably so - the complications are crazy). All ML 3 hand watches have either a Selitta or Unitas in them.