Top ways to quiet an old indiglo timex:
remove second hand (helps a little)
pull out stem to time setting position (for some quiet while you sleep but have to reset time next day)
get a newer solar timex watch - many similar designs but they use a much quieter epson movement. You loose the indiglo though.

Swapping out the indiglo m905 movement (those are the loud ones) isn't really feasible in case you're wondering, there's not really any movements that will fit the hands, date window and stem height. One thought as to why they are so loud is that these movements had the torque (relatively) jacked up. If that's true, it might be a good candidate for hydromodding.

I think the biggest trick is getting all the air bubbles out, particularly with a press-on caseback. The other trick is it's messy when you have to replace the battery, and you have to go through the whole procedure again, so get the best battery you can.
I don't think you'd loose the indiglo on account of the oil, the major problem might be pressing in the crown to activate the indiglo might cause the oil to leak, or introduce air bubbles. And like you mentioned, leakage when you pull out the crown to set the time. If I recall these timex crown gaskets are in the crown, not on the crown shaft like some seiko crowns. The point of a hydromod is to fill the case with a non-compressible substance so the case can't be compressed at depth. Pressing or pulling out the crown requires the inside volume to increase or decrease, I'm not sure how it's handled in a high-end hydromod. Does the caseback deform slightly, is there an internal bellows to compensate, or is there some other time-setting method?

If you don't mind making a real mess of your watch, you should give it a go and see what happens. Good luck, take lots of photos and post them here.

 

I've done two hydro mods. Only one successful one. I half killed my GG-1000-1A5. The stepper motor just couldn't power the hands through even 50 cSt oil. The success was, small world, my 5610.

I literally was bored last weekend and decided to give it a go. Was able to keep it to an incredibly tiny bubble that isn't visible most times. The biggest shock? The auto EL still works!

I honestly wouldn't do it with a snap on back though. Or anything that doesnt have a screw down crown and an already decent WR.

 

I did it on a broke, g shock ga100a. Took a small disposable snack container. Removed the back. Poured the oil until the watch was covered. Moved the movement up and down on one side to release any bubbles. Dropped the case back into position. Lifted one side and let the bubbles out. Screwed it down while the entire thing was submerged. Making sure the case back gasket was in place. No bubbles visible by the dial. Poured the oil back into the bottle using a funnel.

Washed it with dish soap. I wouldn't recommend using it on a movement with a second hand unless you buy the expensive 3M ultra thin oil.

 

Thanks guys!

Guess I should inspect the crown and stem to see the gasket situation first before thinking about filling it.

Good to know that 50cst doesn't affect the autoEL on 5610's, that was my one concern with it.

 

Thanks guys!

Guess I should inspect the crown and stem to see the gasket situation first before thinking about filling it.

Good to know that 50cst doesn't affect the autoEL on 5610's, that was my one concern with it.

Oh it affects it! It's much less responsive. But it does still work.

 

So I got my oil and went to work on the 5610 today.

So I got everything on perfect, no bubble that I could see, but then could not get the EL button to work. At all. No EL no toggle for switching auto on/off.

So I pulled it apart and tried it again. The only thing that accomplished was now I have bubble that comes and goes, and the C button only activates the EL if I push down HARD with a plastic object (nail doesn't really cut it). To be honest all of the buttons seem a little harder to push but they do work, assuming it's a side effect of the oil being thicker than air.

Oh, and the biggest pain was putting the movement back so it was straight, it's probably still a little off but I'm not taking it apart again, unless:

I'm wondering if leaving the rubber spacer on the back off makes any difference for any of the above issues?

Before and after:

Oh yeah, I ran out of oil, and considering this did not work 100% for me I'm going to forgo modding the Timex.

 

What oil did you use? The silicon stuff is a lube.

The spacer is part of the shock protection of Casio. Locates the movement within the case. It's not the oil making the buttons harder to push. Don't leave out any parts.

 

I used 50 Centistoke silicon oil.

I've read most modders use 100, but Essliger also has 10.

Now I wonder if I should have just ordered the 10 instead.

 

Hello, I know Casios get oil-filled all the time and I will be hydro modding my GWM5610, but was considering modding this guy too:
View attachment 16117293

Simply for the reason to quiet the ticking it makes.

I'm wondering if there are any downsides or pitfalls I should be wary of, including:

Slowing down the time due to resistance. Fyi I ordered 50 Centistoke which is half the viscosity that most use for oil filling from what I've read.

Disabling Indiglo. This would be the MAJOR reason I would not attempt this.

Leakage. Case is a push-down back and rated to 50m, and I don't know if the crown has a gasket that will hold the oil in even if pulled out to the setting position.

Thanks for any input from others that have tried to hyydro-mod a Timex before.

TX HydroMod by Wolfsatz, on Flickr

 

It "looks" straighter than it did the first time, and I tested the pusher with the back removed and saw it was pushing in the clip on the movement, but as soon as I screw the case back on again...

I noticed there is a lot of resistance putting the case back on again.

Wondering if it makes a difference which screws you put in first when you put the case back on?

I also did not have enough oil to completely submerge the entire movement, if that matters.

 

I also did not have enough oil to completely submerge the entire movement, if that matters.

???? yes it matters... you'll have bubbles

 

I only had 8ml to work with as 4ml is the only size Esslinger sells and I ordered 2.

I did a decent enough job of overfilling the case and did not have any bubble the first time.

But then the El didn't work, so I had to remove the case back and realign the movement several times as it was not straight, obviously losing oil in the process every time.

So yes now I have a bubble and the C button still doesn't work the way it should. Argh.

I will probably bite the bullet and order more. Likely 10 CST to see if it affects the auto EL less and it actually works, as it does not right now.

 

@CLP A word of caution.

Check out post #19 in THIS THREAD, the rubber cushion in my 5600 expanded and forced an oil leak between case and screen see post #38

Be careful.

 

Thanks Ken. Never heard that mentioned before but hopefully won't have the same problem.

There is quite a bit of pressure required to push the case-back down again which is why I asked if taking the spacer out would actually be beneficial with oil filling.

I had another go at it this morning and finally got the EL button to work so all is well in the world again. Not sure what the issue was because I didn't align anything different this time.

Had a little extra oil in the tube to work with. Still have a small bubble in there that I can live with.

For now, lol.

 

Thanks Ken. Never heard that mentioned before but hopefully won't have the same problem.

There is quite a bit of pressure required to push the case-back down again which is why I asked if taking the spacer out would actually be beneficial with oil filling.

I had another go at it this morning and finally got the EL button to work so all is well in the world again. Not sure what the issue was because I didn't align anything different this time.

Had a little extra oil in the tube to work with. Still have a small bubble in there that I can live with.

For now, lol.

Attempted to hydro mod and it didn’t work. Two black contacts under battery came loose and wouldn’t reply-attach after oil. No pulse! I’ve done four other watches with no problem? Indiglo??

 

So did you drain the oil and did it start working again?

I’ve killed a couple of watches with the hydromod. One I’ve got no idea what happened but it ran for a couple of hours then stopped. The other did well but I bungled the stem trying to get it out. I did get it out and got it back in again later. When the stem is inserted into the movement outside the watch case it works well but inside the case it seems the stem is just a hair too short. Casio won’t sell me a new stem, I might try to get this one working.

Anyway most watches will work if the oil is drained after a failed hydromod. I wish you luck with yours.

 

No luck on the draining. She was stone dead. No indiglo either.

 

If your watch is dead anyway, there’s nothing to be lost with more aggressive cleaning. I’d try washing it out with a solvent such as mineral spirits. That’s cheap and used for pain thinner. It’s relatively gentle on plastics. Another thing might be WD40. The WD40 will leave a film of oily residue but it should clean pretty well. I doubt it will harm anything but it’s hard to harm an already dead watch. I might try the WD40, drain it, then go with mineral spirits. Mineral spirits will dry completely but not quickly. I’d put the parts in the sun for a while to speed drying.

 

Another solvent I use is naptha, otherwise sold as lighter fluid. It’s flammable as hell, so be very careful. I use it for thinning polyurethane when I spray paint wood projects. It enormously speeds drying. I’ve got no idea how it will affect the inside of a watch, but if the watch is already dead…

 

So did they replace it?

 

Yes, and I left the new one alone. I wear that type watch for shop work so I’ve been through a couple.

 

This guy survived and runs fine. I did my wife’s Eddie Bauer and she wears it daily. I figured if it leaked or quit she would smell it and I would hear it. 😂

 

I guess that would be a roughneck on a “mineral” oil rig.

Sorry, crude humor. I just crack myself up.

 

I killed an Eddie Bauer with the oil mod. Maybe I should lighter fluid wash it.

 

I bought a real cheapie $19 and it rancor about 10 minutes and crapped out. I felt guilty and didn’t send it back. Cleaned dial and hands with dish soap to save for another day. PS I fill them to the top and then let a little air back in through the crown to get the bubble. It’s like messing with a level.